Scottish Elises

Just a question to see if anyone else has had something similar..

I think the mounting plate for one of the rear calipers may be warped. When you look at the disk only the very outside edge of the disk is showing any sign of wear. The disk on the opposite side is worn much more evenly.

I remember having same same concern several years ago when I put in a set of pagids. I don't remember it happening with the Carbon Loranne pads that I changed to after that.

Could this be a caliper disk alignment issue?

The bracket will pull straight when you press the brake pedal - so I doubt it is that. Take pictures of the inside/outside face of the disk and the faces of the brake pads (obvz you would need to remove the calipers). IMHO this is more likely caused by a seized or semi-seized slide on the caliper or the surface that the pads are supposed to slide over being corroded. Of course once you've got an uneven brake disk you will always get uneven wear so hard to be sure you've fixed it. Nevertheless I would start by dismantling the whole assembly, get the wire brush onto the rusty bits, make sure the sliding pins are not corroded, lubricate with something like moly grease and re-assemble. If the outside edge of the disk starts to shine up, you've fixed it, albeit you will still want new pads/disks at some point.

Cheers,
Robin

I'd also opt for sticky calipers, check the sliders the caliper mounts on and the surface the pads mount,could even be corrosion on the piston itself?, I Think they can be refurbed at under £100 each

So first real run with the car since the calliper was refurbished. Getting a scuffing noise from the rear that goes away when the handbrake is pulled. The offending rear disk is starting to wear in more evenly now with the wear pattern almost but not quiet matching the opposite side. The rubbing has reduced significantly in the time it took to get home from the LEGS meeting at Murray Motors.

I am assuming the rubbing is coming from the disk bedding in and it isn't a wheel bearing starting to fail... I vaguely remember some discussion about noises that disappear when you pull the handbrake... Car still feel fine, no instability or wobble on the wheel that I can feel.


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I would keep driving it, make sure you use the handbrake frequently (not whilst driving) to keep cranking up the self-adjuster as you wear through the outer layers of rusty cheese and work your way down to the inner layers of shiny cheese

robin wrote: make sure you use the handbrake frequently (not whilst driving)

The elise handbrake is so pants that I suspect 10 handbrake turns = 1 new cable (if not running on 60psi plastic tyres).

Done a few hundred miles now, still rubbing. Will get the wheels off for a look tomorrow.


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Sorted, cable for the handbrake rubbing slightly. Now secured out of the way.


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Good to get a result and thanks for sharing so anyone else with these issuses can check theirs

robin wrote:The elise handbrake is so pants that I suspect 10 handbrake turns = 1 new cable (if not running on 60psi plastic tyres).

I have found it to be quite effective - all comes down to timely deployment - a well executed hand brake turn will only require a brief dab of brake at the crucial point just to break rear traction.

Glad to hear you are getting more niggles sorted John!

If the cable plastic was damaged repair it or water will get in.

Stephen wrote:If the cable plastic was damaged repair it or water will get in.

Will be.. I did have a roll of self amalgamating tape but can't find it in the drawer..

The stub for mounting the P clip was chewed up during a previous cable installation so we were using a tie wrap to hold the cable out of the way. I have been looking on Ebay for alternative clamp types. Hopefully I will find something a little more substantial than a tie wrap. Im considering using a larger P clip that will bolt around the wishbone connected to a smaller P clip that captures the cable. My only concern with that would be dissimilar metals acting on the wishbone causing possible corrosion.. So the rubber lined type would need to be used around the wishbone also. Have not got round to measuring the diameter of the wishbone tube yet.

Wrap plastic coated copper electrical cable round it then twist it tight in an old school pre cable tie fashion. It will work better in that application, not go brittle and not corrode