Scottish Elises

mckeann wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 27, 2018 4:25 pm

Gordon, you need to go a little further than removing all the camber shims. I forget the name of the part, but basically You can machine a little bit away from where the camber shims bolt in. Not the upright side, the other side that connects to the steering rack.
Take a little bit material from there to allow closer to 2 deg negative camber. If it’s too much you can then add camber shims back in

rgordonw wrote:My car had the Sport Pack which included uprated springs and Bilsteins (non adjustable). With all the front camber shims removed handling on road was great and not too bad at KH where you could trail break to counter the understeer. On faster tracks where you want to power through corners (esses at Croft) understeer was a total pain so I decided to invest in Hoffman spec Nitron NTR46s with 400/550 spring rates. Were better but I was disappointed in the improvement considering the cost. Improvements came with fitting an adjustable ARB and 205 AD08Rs on the front. Car now feels much better balanced. With hindsight I wish I had fitted the ARB and 205s first.

Gordon

Rosssco wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 27, 2018 4:45 pm

mckeann wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 27, 2018 4:25 pm

Gordon, you need to go a little further than removing all the camber shims. I forget the name of the part, but basically You can machine a little bit away from where the camber shims bolt in. Not the upright side, the other side that connects to the steering rack.
Take a little bit material from there to allow closer to 2 deg negative camber. If it’s too much you can then add camber shims back in

I think you mean the steering arm. You can buy replacement steering arms which are made to allow increased camber, e.g.:

https://www.eliseparts.com/products/sho ... ring-arms/

mckeann wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 28, 2018 1:21 am

Rosssco wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 27, 2018 4:45 pm

mckeann wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 27, 2018 4:25 pm

Gordon, you need to go a little further than removing all the camber shims. I forget the name of the part, but basically You can machine a little bit away from where the camber shims bolt in. Not the upright side, the other side that connects to the steering rack.
Take a little bit material from there to allow closer to 2 deg negative camber. If it’s too much you can then add camber shims back in

I think you mean the steering arm. You can buy replacement steering arms which are made to allow increased camber, e.g.:

https://www.eliseparts.com/products/sho ... ring-arms/

steering arms. That’s the puppy. I just machined mine and made a huge difference

alicrozier wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 28, 2018 1:13 pm

It can compromise the straight line braking...

mckeann wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 28, 2018 1:14 pm

If you keep things sensible, the drawbacks are limited, but as with anything, push to the extremes and it’ll be more nervous and tramline on the roads. It’ll wear out the inner edges of the front tyres faster than the outside, but usually the front tyres go off with age before this happens anyway so no big deal. If you go very extreme on camber and have stuff springs fitted too, you can find the car locks up slightly earlier in wet conditions where you don’t have the same body roll and tyre contact as a flatter tyre.

Standard camber is about 0 deg. -1 degree is about the max you can get with an S2 without shimming. I prefer -2 degree. Think my S1 was -2.5 degrees but that was very very VERY, erm, what’s the word, erm awesome.

mckeann wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 28, 2018 1:14 pm

If you keep things sensible, the drawbacks are limited, but as with anything, push to the extremes and it’ll be more nervous and tramline on the roads. It’ll wear out the inner edges of the front tyres faster than the outside, but usually the front tyres go off with age before this happens anyway so no big deal. If you go very extreme on camber and have stuff springs fitted too, you can find the car locks up slightly earlier in wet conditions where you don’t have the same body roll and tyre contact as a flatter tyre.

Standard camber is about 0 deg. -1 degree is about the max you can get with an S2 without shimming. I prefer -2 degree. Think my S1 was -2.5 degrees but that was very very VERY, erm, what’s the word, erm awesome.

Mike Scib wrote:Your S2 wanted to drift in a straight line, not very confident inspiring on the road!

My S2 runs -1.2 on the front with the ABS bracket removed and -2.5 on the rear. Works will IMO on road and track with nice even tyre wear.

Am I not right in saying, if its not scrubbing the outside edge of tyres, there's little point in running more (less) camber?

mckeann wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 28, 2018 1:14 pm

If you keep things sensible, the drawbacks are limited, but as with anything, push to the extremes and it’ll be more nervous and tramline on the roads. It’ll wear out the inner edges of the front tyres faster than the outside, but usually the front tyres go off with age before this happens anyway so no big deal. If you go very extreme on camber and have stuff springs fitted too, you can find the car locks up slightly earlier in wet conditions where you don’t have the same body roll and tyre contact as a flatter tyre.

Standard camber is about 0 deg. -1 degree is about the max you can get with an S2 without shimming. I prefer -2 degree. Think my S1 was -2.5 degrees but that was very very VERY, erm, what’s the word, erm awesome.

alicrozier wrote:For reference the 2-11 as standard is -1.4 front, -2.5 rear.

Mike Scib wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 28, 2018 5:26 pm

Your S2 wanted to drift in a straight line, not very confident inspiring on the road!

My S2 runs -1.2 on the front with the ABS bracket removed and -2.5 on the rear. Works will IMO on road and track with nice even tyre wear.

Am I not right in saying, if its not scrubbing the outside edge of tyres, there's little point in running more (less) camber?

mckeann wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 28, 2018 1:14 pm

If you keep things sensible, the drawbacks are limited, but as with anything, push to the extremes and it’ll be more nervous and tramline on the roads. It’ll wear out the inner edges of the front tyres faster than the outside, but usually the front tyres go off with age before this happens anyway so no big deal. If you go very extreme on camber and have stuff springs fitted too, you can find the car locks up slightly earlier in wet conditions where you don’t have the same body roll and tyre contact as a flatter tyre.

Standard camber is about 0 deg. -1 degree is about the max you can get with an S2 without shimming. I prefer -2 degree. Think my S1 was -2.5 degrees but that was very very VERY, erm, what’s the word, erm awesome.