PRRT fit (Finally!) UPDATED!

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sun Dec 24, 2006 6:12 pm

Evening all,

As it's Christmas and I've nothing much to do at home, I have finally after 8 months or so fitted my PRRT. I also swapped the inlet manifold back to the VVC one as the placcy one was leaking.

For reference my car is Aug 97 and has the pipe running over the exhaust manifold.

Well, it came apart quite well, no great problems, but the thermostat housing pipework is held on with 2 bolts. It took me half an hour to work that out... Oh and the removable boot divider was a godsend, without it it would have been a nightmare!

The PRRT fit is quite straght forward and required the lower hard coolant pipe to be cut in half. This leaves a plain end with ne bead to secure the pipe so I used an extra long piece of rubber hose to cover the joint so it shouldn't be able to pop off....(!) Oh an the jubilee clip at the bottom left of the engine bay isn't one with a hex head. It was facing straight down so I couldn't see and a 6mm socket fitted perfectly around it. sadly it just span around and did nothing. I chiselled it off in the end. The angle grider was too tight a fit and there was petrol everywhere...!

The only bit that concerns me a bit is the pipe work under the PRRT is a bit tight as there isn't much room. But it all fit in the end and doesn't leak. I have run it to leak check and initial bleed. After some tea I'll run it again and bleed the rad properly.

All I need to do now is fix my sticky throttle... I have traced it to the pedal end as when it sticks I can pull the pedal upwards and it unsticks. Uprated throttle link my arse!

TTFN

Rich

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Tue Dec 26, 2006 6:59 pm

fitted and run, a coolant hose blew off under pressure, but I had just got a clip the wrong side of a pipe bead, no harm done.

Bit worried as the thermostat didn't appear to open! However, a little squeezing of pipes revealed the worlds biggest airlock the wring side of the thermostat (It's mounted vertically but upside down so the jiggle valve doesn't work) Once fixed the temp instantly went from 99 to 90 (Stationary) Front bleed screw then liberrated another huge gulp of air (And scalded my fingers a bit!) So all seems well for now. I'm letting it all cool and I'll try again in the morning.

TTFN
Rich

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Wed Dec 27, 2006 4:31 pm

Right been for a run and still tinkering.... The bleed screw appears to be leaking which is a pain, PTFE tape should have fix that... Also got a load more air out today, probably due to the leaky bleedscrew. Problem is that it now seems to run at a steady ish 95 where as before it was 90-91. I'm going to let it go stone cold and start again, see if it was another airlock... Rad gets hot though now which is good.

Rich
/confused by coolant faction

Post by **Shug** » Wed Dec 27, 2006 5:59 pm

Give it a bit more time (when you are sure that it's bled right) I remember being concerned about the temps on mine when I first fitted it.

You flush the coolant at the same time? Worth it, TBH.

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Wed Dec 27, 2006 6:46 pm

IF by coolant flush you mean empty the whole system over the floor and replace with fresh then I have dont that mostly. I was going to leave the rad until the temp bung I was using popped out and emptied it for me...

Did yours settle in the end? I'm not overly concerned as it settles at 94 ish and stays there or seems to ATMn could be a knacked sender, I wasn't particually careful with them but the fan still works at 104.

I'll ignore it while it stays below 98 and see what happens when it's had a good thrash up the m-way back to Preston, should get it all nice and flushed through.

I will take a couple of jubilee clips and a load of water though, just in case...!

Ta
Rich

Post by **Shug** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 10:18 am

Yup, settled down to a rock solid 87 in the end. Although it's fluctuating now, as I have a wee pressure leak in the expansion bottle - if it sits for a while, the temp creeps up. Nothing major though.

hiscot · Post by **hiscot** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 10:35 am

mine sits at 84 deg but i have a new temp sender fitted
i have got a home made bleed screw very high up fitted on the oil/water cooler ( old piece off top coolent pipe )
however before that i have used the easy bleed with low pressure on the exp tank just to push the air along ( bad memorys of sill pipe leak )

Post by **Shug** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 10:50 am

hiscot wrote:mine sits at 84 deg but i have a new temp sender fitted
i have got a home made bleed screw very high up fitted on the oil/water cooler ( old piece off top coolent pipe )
however before that i have used the easy bleed with low pressure on the exp tank just to push the air along ( bad memorys of sill pipe leak )

Whereas I used an airline and a rubber glove....

Nowt to do with the cracked expansion tank, I'm sure

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 2:47 pm

Right seems to settle at 95 deg and stay there.
I found my bleeding problem (Pun intended!) the bleed screw on the coolant pipe above the exhaust (Early S1 remember) was leaking so when it cooled it was drawing in loads of air again. I PTFE taped it and it has stopped leaking for now. No more air in the system I can find and I'll wait and see if it settles at a lower temp. If it doesn't I'll get another coolant sender (Number 4!) and try again. I may also change the earth straps. I get a jump of 3 deg with the blower fan and another 2 with the lights

hiscot · Post by **hiscot** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 4:06 pm

I fitted a thin m/bike battery cable from the rear chassis/engine post up to the ecu earth post
temp still has a very slight jump
but before the stack light used to flicker even pressing the brakes, its ok now

r10crw · Post by **r10crw** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 5:34 pm

I had lots of problems when I first fitted mine which turned out to be faulty stat. Replaced it and she run fine but at at 94 degrees whereas the stat was supposed to be 88. Spoke to geary and he explained that most stack units read around four degrees too high so shouldnt worry. Also
his earlier remote stats were 84 degrees which explains other peoples lower readings. Cheers Craig.
Ps Rich did you replace the o ring on the old housing as I kept getting a drip from mine. Also did you remove the ball bearing from the spider trap as this can cause irratic readings?

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 7:35 pm

Spider trap?

I had all the other seals but the existing ones are all watertight.

Ta
Rich

hiscot · Post by **hiscot** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:55 pm

spyder trap will be in the inlet manifold the brass blead the hose comes from i guess
my prrt is a l/rover latest grey version not gearys

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 9:52 pm

There is no spider trap on the VVC inlet, the plastic manifold one was all gunged up IIRC.

Mine is a Landy part too, I'm wondering if it's working ok or if my plumbing is wrong. The rad gets hot and the temp is steady, just a bit warm for my liking...

I'm off for a 100 mile m-way balst tomorrow, that will be kill or cure! (I'll take some jubiee clips and a load of water with me though!)

Fingers crossed!

Rich

hiscot · Post by **hiscot** » Fri Dec 29, 2006 12:00 am

if this helps its how mine is fitted , i changed the top pipe/sill hose to later spec so i could fit a oil/ water cooler

[img][img]http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/9961/dsc00893uo4.jpg[/img][/img]

the short pipe t's off to the head via oil cooler
longer hose to thermostat housing ( thermostat removed and blank put in )