Scottish Elises

Slight issue re. coolant flow.

I have recently fitted a hurricane. Everything working fine for 2 months. Decided I did not like the ducting passing under the bar (pasing downwards towards the rear subframe) and over the fuel lines (2002 K series Elise) so brought the ducting over the bar after shortening it and away from fuel lines.

All fine until I take it for a first test drive 2 days ago. After the car warmed up, I could hear a loud trickling sound from behind the passenger seat at about shoulder height.

Panicked, because it sounded like an electric water pistol (but much louder) and thought I had clobbered one of the fuel lines when changing the hurricane ducting. Checked at roadside - everthing dry.

Bit more testing - at around 2000 revs, but not when stationary, I hear this same trickling sound, as if there is a small stream in the engine bay! Can't reproduce on revving whilst at standstill. Present to about 4000 revs in every gear then cannot hear (but wonder whether this is because of increasing engine noise).

Heard the same thing yesterday, only after warming. Stopped and pressed butterfly to 2000 revs and although I could not reproduce same sound (ie stationary), I do notice a constant jet of coolant coming in the top pipe going into the header tank (?overflow pipe?). Starts and finishes around the same revs range.

What is going on?? I had wondered if I might have an air lock or perhaps the header tank cap had failed.

Can I drive the car?

Thanks for your suggestions.

John

sounds like the charcole purge cannister ( black cannister against the bulk head ) making the ticking noise as they all do
the water return is normal check cap is tight and check water level watch temp but i think theres nothing to worry about
too much reporting about hgf most cars wont suffer from it

Thanks for that.

Feel less worried

NR

engine air bleed point

Thanks Lawrence for the photos and pm advice.

I think the problem is solved following your suggestions.

John

Nope. Best bet is to park on an uphill slope, or ramps, engine running, then slacken off the front knurled wheel bleed screw underneath the top nearside wheel arch. But DO NOT unscrew it completely or you will lose it into the depths.

Also bleed the rear point as Lawrence indicated.

tut

ps It is a self bleeding system, but the above helps.

tut

Right.

Had the car running fine over the last couple of days. Coolant level rising and falling to around max and minimum when hot or cold, repectively.

Not driven it for a few days and washed yesterday. Has been siting out in the cold countryside near Edinburgh. Coolant only now just in the bottom of the header tank, way below minimum. This is after a 1 litre top-up about 1 month ago with a few hard blasts in between (ie about 5 blasts of around 100 miles each time).

Cannot see any evidence of leak at radiator or elsewhere. No sound of gas escape at cap on header tank when collant is hot.

Oil and coolant colour fine - no emulsion.

Cannot believe that the system can go through a litre of the stuff in that short time, particularly not in the winter.

This has kind of been an on-going problem over the past year requiring intermittent system top-ups.

Any suggestions?

John

Start with a new header tank cap if not already done so.

The system should be presure bleed though - but it doesn't sound like an airlock.

There was an issue with the security of the hoses as they entered/exited the radiator - they can be pushed on too far as well as not far enough making sealing an issue.


HTH

Mac

So has the level dropped since it has been sitting unused for a few days?

But when you had been using it the level was okay?

Does seem strange.

I had a loose 'jubilee' clip on the hose between the radiator and the pipe in the sill. It nearly popped off after use, only noticed it when I got my feet wet putting the roof on. Then noticed a drop in coolant level in the tank.

I fitted a new 'jubilee' clip after pushing the hose onto the pipe a bit more. All been fine since.

And thinking back, I'm sure I did once or twice top up the water a little, before I found the leak, so I presume it had been seeping a bit before that.

I also had a jubilee clip come loose. It was only weeping but I could see a trace of water when I shawn (sp?) a torch up through the front grill. Hopefully this is all it is, but could be early symptoms of HGF. Keep an eye on it.

I am sure someone with more knowledge will be along shortly to confirm that I am talking bollocks WRT to HGF

Mine used to sip coolant until I get sick of worrying and radwelded the little bugger. Stopped loosing coolant but god knows what it's done to the rad.

Unlikely to be HGF without any of the normal signs. Watch for dribbles around the coolant tank lid, could be a duff cap (£3) or HGF across the fire rings (£££!) There is a block tester at Lawrence's and there is another somewhere else (Where did it go BTW?) will prove one way or another (And wreck your nerves while you wait for the results!)

I have read about hoses weeping coolant, the hose material becoming porous. could explain mystery leaks?

HTH
Rich

RICHARDHUMBLE wrote:There is a block tester at Lawrence's and there is another somewhere else (Where did it go BTW?) will prove one way or another (And wreck your nerves while you wait for the results!)

Rich

Mac has the 'other' block tester.

I've got it Rich - was though a good idea to have one east & west (including Preston)


You want it posting down?


Mac

tut wrote:Nope. Best bet is to park on an uphill slope, or ramps, engine running, then slacken off the front knurled wheel bleed screw underneath the top nearside wheel arch. But DO NOT unscrew it completely or you will lose it into the depths.

Also bleed the rear point as Lawrence indicated.

tut

Front or rear wheels on the ramps?