Replacing aS1 Manifold
Replacing aS1 Manifold
Anybody give me a step for a hint on this one ???
Bell and Colvill Super 140 S1 Elise
Taken from the seloc site mate, it's pointed me in the right direction
It will come out of the bottom with the downpipe still attached - you need to remvoe the oil filter and engien steady bar (one 19mm bolt into the subframe and one 19mm bolt into a braclket that bolts to the sump.
Also I hope you've alreay removed the crapp heat sheild, these disintegrate when you look at them and are 120 from Lotus! Repair waht you have with aluminium tape once you've removed it.
Then you can get it to come out, but you need to rock the engine forward an back.
You can make oit easier by removing the two bolts that holt the engien mount to the chassis, and once the steady bar is off you can pull whole engine backwards away from the bulkhead and that will give you more room to get to the manifold out.
It will come out of the bottom with the downpipe still attached - you need to remvoe the oil filter and engien steady bar (one 19mm bolt into the subframe and one 19mm bolt into a braclket that bolts to the sump.
Also I hope you've alreay removed the crapp heat sheild, these disintegrate when you look at them and are 120 from Lotus! Repair waht you have with aluminium tape once you've removed it.
Then you can get it to come out, but you need to rock the engine forward an back.
You can make oit easier by removing the two bolts that holt the engien mount to the chassis, and once the steady bar is off you can pull whole engine backwards away from the bulkhead and that will give you more room to get to the manifold out.
Bell and Colvill Super 140 S1 Elise
If you want to practice you can take mine off too. I have a gubbed lambda sensor & stripped threads in the hole, currently filled with a mixture of the old sensor and gum.
What I would advise is to wd40 the nuts every day for a few days before you start the job and use a 6 sided or surface drive socket as you really don't want to break a manifold stud or round a nut. The wd 40 will burn off but it will still leave trace residue.
What I would advise is to wd40 the nuts every day for a few days before you start the job and use a 6 sided or surface drive socket as you really don't want to break a manifold stud or round a nut. The wd 40 will burn off but it will still leave trace residue.
Done mine today. No bother at all. Get the bonnet off to give better access (takes 2 min), take off frontpipe nuts, take off manifold nuts, take rear 19mm bolt out engine steadybar, disconnect lambda connector and get someone to lever the engine and pull the manifold out the top way. Fitted new gaskets and fetlled the manifold a bit and strengthened some of the welds while it was out. Took a ffew hours but some of that was working and rewelding the manifold. Car feels sharper off the throttle now and sounds much better. Back to popping and banging on the overrun again, cool:D
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good lad 
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