OK,
after the tut towers trackday and weekend the old beast has developed a couple of issues - needless to say it ran faultlessly all weekend, and only started doing these today which is good I guess....
First of all, went out started car. Idled at 2k rpm then fluctuated up and down to 1500rpm about once a second. Turned it off then on and it was the same. Took it for a spin, about a mile, turned it off then on and it was fine for a 45mile trip.
Second, there is a really loud "cricking" noise coing from the front left when cold -goes away after maybe 5 mins of driving. Not related to breaking or bumps in the road really.
Thanks in advance for any help chaps
JJ
Fluctuating revs at idle and loud cricking noise
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steve_weegie
- Posts: 3249
- Joined: Tue Jun 28, 2005 12:40 am
- Location: Nessieland
My battery went flat recently and the car insisted on idleing at 3500rpm until it was charged up. Could just be a dodgy battery - it would certainly explain why it was fine after charging up during your run. What's the voltage with the engine off?
As for the cricking noise.... Is it the front of the car, or the front of the engine bay??
Cheers,
Steve
As for the cricking noise.... Is it the front of the car, or the front of the engine bay??
Cheers,
Steve
The car didnt start yesterday because the +ve on the battery was loose to the point where it fell off and everything went dead, but I thought it might be unrelated - if not then that clears that one up.
As for the cricking, its front left wheel - not a noise I have heard on this or any of my previous cars.... balljoints perhaps? Track rod ends and suspension appear fine closeup, but I have no idea how a balljoint is checked for wear.
As for the cricking, its front left wheel - not a noise I have heard on this or any of my previous cars.... balljoints perhaps? Track rod ends and suspension appear fine closeup, but I have no idea how a balljoint is checked for wear.
JJ
you may just have to grease the ball joint mate. the heavy driving has maybe just lessened the viscosity of the grease and you need a bit of a top up?
should be a grease nipple easily visible
ninja
you may just have to grease the ball joint mate. the heavy driving has maybe just lessened the viscosity of the grease and you need a bit of a top up?
should be a grease nipple easily visible
ninja
2009 Evora - Matt Black Wrap - Sports, tech 2 & Premium Packs - Hard Wired Snooper
2015 Merc SLK - White - wife's car spec with heated and electric everything
You're writing "cricking" and I am thinking "creaking" do you mean creaking or if not, what sort of noise is "cricking" - does it follow wheel rotation?
If it's a creak then it will be your anti roll bar - there are dry bushes that it runs through (something like nylon I think) - remove the front under tray and you will see them. You can lubricate these with that gun slide stuff, or if they are loose you can replace the bushes or wrap the bar in PTFE tape at the relevant place. The bushes don't carry any load under normal circumstances, though when the body rolls there will be an up-down load inside to outside.
Often the noise can be reproduced just by turning the steering lock-to-lock without your foot on the brake. Just getting in and out can sometimes do it. Having someone bounce the car on just one side might also do it.
If it's more like a click on wheel rotation check your anti-rattle springs are pointing down (should be vaguely Y shaped with two tails pointing up and one tail pointing down). Also check that the flexible brake lines are properly secured to the wishbone with the P-clip - when people fit metal lines they often position them wrong and they can clip the wheel weights.
Cheers,
Robin
If it's a creak then it will be your anti roll bar - there are dry bushes that it runs through (something like nylon I think) - remove the front under tray and you will see them. You can lubricate these with that gun slide stuff, or if they are loose you can replace the bushes or wrap the bar in PTFE tape at the relevant place. The bushes don't carry any load under normal circumstances, though when the body rolls there will be an up-down load inside to outside.
Often the noise can be reproduced just by turning the steering lock-to-lock without your foot on the brake. Just getting in and out can sometimes do it. Having someone bounce the car on just one side might also do it.
If it's more like a click on wheel rotation check your anti-rattle springs are pointing down (should be vaguely Y shaped with two tails pointing up and one tail pointing down). Also check that the flexible brake lines are properly secured to the wishbone with the P-clip - when people fit metal lines they often position them wrong and they can clip the wheel weights.
Cheers,
Robin
I is in your loomz nibblin ur wirez
#bemoretut
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P.S. the balljoints are not re-greasable AFAIK - they come greased for life - if the grease gets lost then the joint needs to be replaced.
Jack car up, grab the wheel and rock top to bottom vigorously - if you can feel any clicking/play at all then you need to look for ball joint wear and wheel bearing wear.
Excessive play is easily visible; however when something is just starting to go it can be harder to see the play - get someone to rock the wheel for you and place your hand in turn on the upper balljoint, back of the wheel bearing and lower balljoint. You should be able to feel where the play is, either by relative motion of the two pieces or by the intensity of the "shock".
You do need to be quite vigorous in rocking the wheel, so make sure the car is jacked securely (i.e. no scissor jacks!!).
Cheers,
Robin
Jack car up, grab the wheel and rock top to bottom vigorously - if you can feel any clicking/play at all then you need to look for ball joint wear and wheel bearing wear.
Excessive play is easily visible; however when something is just starting to go it can be harder to see the play - get someone to rock the wheel for you and place your hand in turn on the upper balljoint, back of the wheel bearing and lower balljoint. You should be able to feel where the play is, either by relative motion of the two pieces or by the intensity of the "shock".
You do need to be quite vigorous in rocking the wheel, so make sure the car is jacked securely (i.e. no scissor jacks!!).
Cheers,
Robin
I is in your loomz nibblin ur wirez
#bemoretut
#bemoretut
Re: Fluctuating revs at idle and loud cricking noise
May be the Throttle Position sensor - if it runs a bit lumpy at idle - Mac recently replaced mine - immediate fix!jj wrote:OK,
First of all, went out started car. Idled at 2k rpm then fluctuated up and down to 1500rpm about once a second. Turned it off then on and it was the same. Took it for a spin, about a mile, turned it off then on and it was fine for a 45mile trip.
JJ
Robin, it is a creak but the noise is shorter, hence the crick 
ARB bushes do look a little worse for wear (perishing/ cracking) so KH might have finished them off or made the wear more apparent. New ones getting ordered.
Idle has been fine Rob, and was fine on way to work today - it does occasionally "hang" the revs, eg when slowing down, clutch in, revs stay at 1500 for maybe 2 seconds, which I thought may be a dodgy TPS.
ARB bushes do look a little worse for wear (perishing/ cracking) so KH might have finished them off or made the wear more apparent. New ones getting ordered.
Idle has been fine Rob, and was fine on way to work today - it does occasionally "hang" the revs, eg when slowing down, clutch in, revs stay at 1500 for maybe 2 seconds, which I thought may be a dodgy TPS.
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tuscan_thunder
- Posts: 1189
- Joined: Wed Jul 12, 2006 2:33 pm
- Location: Aberdeenshire
JJ - I don't know what car you have but if it's a K engine, that sounds like the Idle Control Valve to me. Mine often gets 'sticky'. dose of carb cleaner then a coating of grease sorts it for 6months or sojj wrote:Robin, it is a creak but the noise is shorter, hence the crick
ARB bushes do look a little worse for wear (perishing/ cracking) so KH might have finished them off or made the wear more apparent. New ones getting ordered.
Idle has been fine Rob, and was fine on way to work today - it does occasionally "hang" the revs, eg when slowing down, clutch in, revs stay at 1500 for maybe 2 seconds, which I thought may be a dodgy TPS.
Mair throttle, less brake
I am back with K power so that sounds like a plan - will have a look at the IACV tonight.tuscan_thunder wrote:JJ - I don't know what car you have but if it's a K engine, that sounds like the Idle Control Valve to me. Mine often gets 'sticky'. dose of carb cleaner then a coating of grease sorts it for 6months or sojj wrote:Robin, it is a creak but the noise is shorter, hence the crick
ARB bushes do look a little worse for wear (perishing/ cracking) so KH might have finished them off or made the wear more apparent. New ones getting ordered.
Idle has been fine Rob, and was fine on way to work today - it does occasionally "hang" the revs, eg when slowing down, clutch in, revs stay at 1500 for maybe 2 seconds, which I thought may be a dodgy TPS.
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tuscan_thunder
- Posts: 1189
- Joined: Wed Jul 12, 2006 2:33 pm
- Location: Aberdeenshire
it's a piece of provierbial to do. Even I can do it!
(copyright for this goes to Ali C)
I usually take the valve out and run turn the ignition on so you can see if the valve is operating.
I douse it in carb cleaner (watch paint and skin!) and use a toothbrush to clean the surface. After it's dried I spray it with grease.
(copyright for this goes to Ali C)
I usually take the valve out and run turn the ignition on so you can see if the valve is operating.
I douse it in carb cleaner (watch paint and skin!) and use a toothbrush to clean the surface. After it's dried I spray it with grease.
Mair throttle, less brake
