Car grumbling after TT.

[pete]

Tut towers was ace but my car is definitely feeling a bit tired… Apart from a few new NSRs (non specific rattles) it’s got a few more concerning ones… Any ideas?





Pressing the clutch seems to generate a squeaky noise from behind my left shoulder. Sounds like something is dry that shouldn't be...

The brakes when hot on TT (road run) made a loud tick tick tick noise when you pressed the pedal (seemed to be coming from the front). This noise has stopped now.

The brakes when hot (on the track only, this happened on first starting out again after a quick rest) went a bit spongy. Does this mean I need new fluid? I have braided hoses and the sponginess only seemed to be there for the first press.

The throttle release spring has snapped. I mention this only to show how hard I was trying I think that will just be a new spring to fix!

There is oil, as some who followed me can verify, coming from my car. It seems to be coming from the top right of the engine (Shug mentioned cam errm something seals I think. Other knowledgeable types helpfully peered at it and mumbled their agreement.). Can anyone remember what it was? Or how much it might cost to get it fixed?


Feeling poor and woeful - my new garage is currently 50-60% over budget. Nearly finished though!!!

[tenkfeet]

Hey Pete , I think they said the cam shaft oil seals, no idea what is involved in changing them . Start cracking the whip with the builders

My car is also feeling sorry for itself , sounds like its pinking at 3500 rpm under light load in all gears . Brakes like your need new fluid , if has not been changed for a while it will make a massive differance. I have an easy bleed if required .

[robin]

Usually the clutch squeak is actually the "trunnion bush" which is in the pedal (where the master cylinder rod connects to the pedal) and is a bitch to change If you're sure it's coming from behind you then get someone to operate the clutch while you stick your head in the engine bay and see it it's louder - if so it's either the clutch fork where it meets the slave cylinder piston or perhaps the actual clutch slave cylinder bracket moving (could be fractured?). If it's none of that, it inside the bell housing and somewhat academic to speculate further as the cost to fix is the same whichever part it is.

Brakes are always spongy when they've been hot and then cooled because you need to pump the pistons back up to remate the pads and disks (when the disks, pads and calipers cool, they shrink and leave a gap); if they weren't spongy when hot the fluid is fine.

There are four cam oil seals. If it's either of the ones on the gearbox side, you can just pop out the old seals and push in the new ones, pretty much (these are the reddish/orange ones). If the oil is coming out the driver's side then you need to remove the cam pulleys and you would be well advised to clean the pulleys and change the cam belt and tensioner at the same time - that will put back the point at which you need a C service (I think it becomes a B service).

A set of seals is about 10-15 quid - Dan does belt&tensioner change for <200 quid including the parts, IIRC, so I don't suppose it would be more than 300-350 to change the camshaft oil seals at the same time.

Cheers,
Robin

[pete]

It's just had a cambelt (at Falkland) abot a month ago.
Of course it is the driver's side (it would be!).

None of those possible clutch things sound easy to fix! I saw Robin had replied and was hoping for a wee photograph showing where to squirt the WD40 to make it go away.

Going to sit in a dark corner and think of ways to explain to my builder that I may need to spend his wages on my car. (Unless my plan to sell advertising space in my sig file comes good!).

Pete

[pete]

Hey Pete , I think they said the cam shaft oil seals, no idea what is involved in changing them . Start cracking the whip with the builders

My car is also feeling sorry for itself , sounds like its pinking at 3500 rpm under light load in all gears . Brakes like your need new fluid , if has not been changed for a while it will make a massive differance. I have an easy bleed if required .

Thanks alan... The brakes were done last summer I think, it sounds like the oil leak will require me giving what little money I have left to falkland (Dan is just too far). I suppose while it there they can test the fluid (I guess they'll have a hygrowotnot).

Top weekend but let's not do it for again for a while eh? At least until my bank account has bounced back ;(
How's your back windscreen? Have you bodged a repair or have you just stuck it in the garage and ignored it... (That's what I'd do).

Pete

[robin]

Pete,

As long as the oil leak is not huge, you don't have to rush into fixing it - the cam belt will need to be replaced anyway (oil contamination); the tensioner will be fine. I wouldn't do 1,000s of miles or very high revs this way because eventually you run the risk of the belt failing or slipping, but this is a long way down the road. For cruising about <4000 RPM I would reckon that leaving it for a month won't be much of a risk at all - just keep a close eye on the oil level.

No point testing brake fluid - just replace it or leave it until you're next heading for the track - even the worst fluid in the world is OK for normal road use so long as the pedal is reasonably firm when cold.

Cheers,
Robin

[Scottd]

...
None of those possible clutch things sound easy to fix! I saw Robin had replied and was hoping for a wee photograph showing where to squirt the WD40 to make it go away....

Hey Pete
If it's the same as the clutch bush on my car then Robins right, it is a bitch to change, but I did it, so it is doable. About 30 mins work time in the lotus position, so that means a 20 min break every 5 mins followed by a day for the back to fully recover.
But!! it was in fact about the best £15 I've spent on the car, made the clutch feel 100x better. I got a copper bush kit a while back from someone off of BBS or Seloc, pm if you want me to have a search about and find out where. Apparently if you leave the crappy OE bush on it wears out the pedal. Look at the gunk around the clutch bush, if it's thick, full of metal filings, it's time to replace.


scott

[Scottd]

Pete,

As long as the oil leak is not huge....

Hmm, I think there was murmurings to the effect of, don't follow him unless you want your car covered in oil

[pete]

Pete,

As long as the oil leak is not huge....

Hmm, I think there was murmurings to the effect of, don't follow him unless you want your car covered in oil

Thanks Robin,

Errm yes. Andy D was chasing me for a few miles from Dufftown to TT and his car looked a bit, errrm , spattery when we stopped. I tried to tell him it was an aerodynamic aid.

As it drips onto the undertray, rather than the road the air forces it back and reduces it to very small drops. A little oil goes a long way. It's not a big leak but it is constant

Pete

[tut]

Pete

Do NOT use WD40. Use spray grease or better still, dry slide.

tut

[tenkfeet]

How's your back windscreen? Have you bodged a repair or have you just stuck it in the garage and ignored it... (That's what I'd do).

Pete

Bodge Do you meant craft from the solid and intricately instal and alternative solution ????

Its stuck in the garage and I have ignored it till this weekend .