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Gear change **Edited to Engine Mountings**
Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 8:12 am
by cla5h
Yesterday when I changed gear, and came off the clutch and back on the gas, the gear lever was jerking a couple of times to the left.
It was also springing back to centre from neutral, when it's normally quite sloppy in moving back.
I went for a look, and as I removed the rear diffuser, I noticed a couple of shiny clean patches on the dirty tray (at the front edge where it joins to the rear undertray) immediately below where a couple of rubber connections on the gear linkage sit (two cables presumably running from gear lever /clutch pedal, join to two short connecting rods, the rear-most ends of which sit in these rubber connectors, with other connections then travelling upward, presumably to the gearbox.)
Drove without the trays, and the problem was gone.
I can't see how the diffuser could have moved higher, so I'm thinking the linkage must have moved lower.
Would you normally expect there to be clearance between these rubber bits, and the diffuser tray?
On the last few hundered yards into work this morning, I started noticing a clunking noise. Haven't had time to investiagte, and am hoping it may just be something loose because the trays are off, but it sounded heavier than a simple rattle. Coincidence, or connected?
Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 8:19 am
by Rich H
Check the cables are held in place securely. The gear linkage clips are crap rover mild steel and can occasionally fall off.
Other than that there is a bellcrank with lots ov ushes and placcy bits that wear adn go all floppy. Geary sells a kit to tighten it up, there is also a bloke who makes the bushes without the linkage (Gearys linkage is a bit OTT)
Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 8:19 am
by Rich H
Dyslexia strikes again

Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 8:57 am
by tut
The bellcrank can also bend on its trunnion, and put it out of line, so check that as well.
tut
Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 9:07 am
by cla5h
Bellcranks? Trunions? I'm lost now (know FA about these things.)
It seems that these rubber connectors (that convert gear-lever movement in the horizontal connecting rods, to the vertical rods) are sitting lower than they should be.
If this is the case, then the vertical rods disappearing up into the gearbox must also be lower than they should be.
Where should I be looking to see if this is the case?
I've tried searching for pictures on the web, but can't find anything relevant.
Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 10:41 am
by Rich H
THe cables are held tight to the gearbox, there should be no movement in the rubber boots other than in and out of thier operation.
Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 11:33 am
by cla5h
Difficult to check at the mo, as I'm in my work clobber, but I've had a look under the car from the rear (undertrays are still off.)
These rubber 'boots' are are the rear-most part of the mechanism. They have what I can only describe as metal brackets, rather than rods, heading up towards the engine.
From these two rubbers, toward the front of the car, are two short connecting rods, which pass through what looks like a bit of sub-frame before linking with the cables running forward.
I could just about get my hand under to touch the rubber - there doesn't seem to be any up/down movement, so I'm not clear why these are pressing against the topside of the diffuser, and why it's only been noticeable since yesterday.
I took it for a short drive, and I'm sure I can occasionally hear a clunking noise - doesn't seem to be related to changing gear, though.
Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 11:40 am
by Shug
Bet you a pound, one of the clips has come off. The bit you describe as a bit of a sub-frame - are the cables secured to that (they pass through)?
There are two wee clips here that often get tired and fail. Try pushing the whole cable arrangement up.
Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 11:58 am
by Rich H
A pound?? A Whole pound?
Jeebus, thats serious stuff

Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2007 8:31 am
by cla5h
Was able to get a proper look yesterday.
The cables pass through holes in a flange on the underside of the engine, and are held in here by metal retaining plates.
One of these was lower than the other, so I tapped them up as far as they would go, but it didn't actually raise the rubbers that were rubbing.
Undertrays back on, and problem still exists - gear lever jerking, and sometimes difficult to find 5th.
The knocking noise is getting worse, and is coming from the passenger side at the rear; it's particularly noticeable when turning right.
Checked after I arrived at work this morning, and the pasenger wheelarch is up to an inch lower than the driver's side.
This very same damper was replaced three months ago, as it was badly leaking. No immediate signs of leakage, and I'm not a particularly harsh driver, to have fcuk it so soon.
However, is it possible that a failure here, or in some other part of the suspension, could have brought the gear linkage nearer the undertray, or is it purely coincidental.
Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2007 9:21 am
by MacK
Did you change the spring and damper, or just the damper?
Maybe the spring is not sitting correctly.
I have a spare spring and damper you can borrow if required. (used)
Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2007 9:42 am
by cla5h
Ta- It was a complete spring & damper that was replaced. Possibly faulty, possibly not fittted correctly, and I will pursue this, just not sure whether this could lead to the apparent 'droop' in the gear linkage.
Do any S2 owners know how much clearance there is between the gear gubbins and the diffuser, i.e. do they all rub?
Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 11:35 am
by cla5h
Anybody got any suggestions on this?
Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 11:58 am
by Rich H
Its only 2 bolts to fit a spring and damper, dunno how you'd get it wrong. sounds like ball joints or toe links to me.
Shug, you own me a pound!

Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 12:35 pm
by cla5h
Thanks, would these by evidenced by excess movement in the wheel? Had both sides jacked up, and didn't seem to be any left/right or top/bottom play.
Is there a better way to check, e.g. wheel off for balljoints, tugging on toe link; what sort of play should I expect if all OK?