Scottish Elises

When I bought my car from MMC a year or so ago, I asked them to cover the seats so they arranged for them to be sent off to get covered and refitted before collection.

Now I want to put some Dynamat on the floor and found that "someone" has rounded off two of the passenger seat fixing bolts.

So today I spent AGES taking out the seat from the subframe, only to get ONE of the bolts out, but the other is completely rounded. If it had been a "normal" car I would mig weld the bolt head to the allen key and take it out, but will this melt any glue nearby?

I dont fancy drilling it out in case I knacker the captive nut below (I presume there is one somewhere.) Suggestions on removal most welcome! The PAX seat is out and only the subframe remains. If I can get the remaining bolt out I can buy new ones and refit them WITH CARE this time.

I'd have posted a picture but couldnt find the instructions on how to do it.

Many thanks.

You can probably use a stud extractor (I have some if you don't) on the outside of the cap head, if there's enough clearance. Failing that use a 9mm drill (bolt is M8) to remove the head, then use the stud extractor on what's left.

Welding something onto it will be OK too, as long as it doesn't get toooo hot (fuel tank behind the panel).

Cheers,
Robin

I found by chance I could lightly tap the allen key socket into the bolt then use a longish extension bar put a side load ( like opening a tin of paint ) so its cocked in the bolt then at the same time unscrew the bolt . I think that makes sense. If your lucky unscrew and bolt will be stuck on to the allen key .

Many thanks

I will look into all these methods.

Never used a stud extrator before. Will check for clearence but I suspect there isnt room.

I dont think the allen socket at an angle will work this time as the nut has absolutely no edges on it at all!

Grrrrrrrrrr. Will have a look tomorrow.

Thanks for the feedback.

I expect you could get an easy-out into the head of the hex head recess that's rounded . . . if it's rounded I'd asume it's probably not that tight . . . if you have the skills to mig a bolt onto it . . . do it . . . the seat bolts are into captive bzp rivnuts and you needn't worry about heating - there's lots of alu to soak up the heat . . . unless you're planning to be mig-ing for minutes . . . which you won't if you have the relevant skills . . .

The seat bolts are a real pain, best accessed using a ball end long hex head for the difficult ones . . . of course a monkey would just butcher them . . . as in your case

Fd

fd wrote: ... if you have the skills to mig a bolt onto it . . . do it . . . the seat bolts are into captive bzp rivnuts and you needn't worry about heating - there's lots of alu to soak up the heat . . . unless you're planning to be mig-ing for minutes . . . which you won't if you have the relevant skills . . .

Fd

Will probably try that, if I cant get hold of an easy-out as it sounds like a handy tool to purchase

james wrote:

fd wrote: ... if you have the skills to mig a bolt onto it . . . do it . . . the seat bolts are into captive bzp rivnuts and you needn't worry about heating - there's lots of alu to soak up the heat . . . unless you're planning to be mig-ing for minutes . . . which you won't if you have the relevant skills . . .

Fd

Will probably try that, if I cant get hold of an easy-out as it sounds like a handy tool to purchase

Well the thing about easy-outs is that they are very dangerous . . . they may help you out . . . or they may make the problem 100x worse . . . you kinda need to realise their limitations before committing to using them . . .



Fd

Success

I welded the end of an allen key to the problem bolt. Surrounded the area with wet rags to contain the heat and gingerly tried to free it - it MOVES!

Drivers side was easy but then it didnt look like King Kong had been anywhere near that side.

Will be replacing all the bolts with new just in case.

Now for the dynamat sound proofing. Another post I think.

Thanks for all the suggestions.