Scottish Elises

Morning gents,
I have a week off next week for a variety of mechanical tasks on a variety of disreputable vehicles (S1 Landie springs to finish fitting, Mk3 Cortina V6 to rebuild and S1 Liz tinkering) and I have aquired (OK bought!) a set of SS braided brake lines.

I have an online guide http://www.elisenet.plus.com/BrakeHoses.htm but I was wondering if anyone had any top tips?

I was going to drain the whole system to clear out the old fluid entirely, or am I asking for trouble?

Castrol Super dot DOT 4 suitable?

Cheers
Rich

Only thing I have heard is that you have to take the callipers off and turn them upside down to bleed them properly.

I need to replace my brake fluid and this is putting me off slightly.

I'll post here when its done and try and remember to take photos!

Prob is I'll be at my parents "darn sarf" in the Black Country and they have no internet
(Color Telly and videos were just a passing fad, but yes we have running water and an inside toilet)

Rich

Not worth draining the whole system - makes bleeding even more of a chore. All you need to do is flush the system through while bleeding to get all new fluid (remember to do the clutch line as well, if you want to replenish the whole system - it shares the brake reservoir)

Also, as ross says, turn the calipers to bleed.

Another useful resource here: http://www.elise-faq.info/content/brakes/index.php

I asked at the factory about the turning the calipers to bleed and they said it was nonsense!

I still do it though, don't want to find a bubble braking for Duffas now do we?


Mac

Flipping the calipers definately makes it easier... Could not get a hard pedal (steady tiger...) without doing it. I wonder what magic technology the factory has?

Someone with feet the same size as Sideshow Bob perhaps.

Mac

If you're not using a pressure bleeder, would suggest short pedal pushes (same as in normal operation) rather than down to the boards each time.

Theory being that the length of master cylinder not being constantly swept during normal breaking becomes very slightly corroded & rips the sh*t out of your master cylinder seals causing them to fail.
That's why a lot of people wind up having to replace thier master cylinders (or at least the seals) after bleeding their brakes.

Depending on the system can sometimes pay to just let it run (starting at the furthermost from the master & working in) & not pump at all.

Don't know about the elise on that though cos I've never done it.

Good luck

Richard,
Don't drain the system, get an eazybleed and flush it through. it's cheap and makes the job a doddle.

Brake lines done!

Pretty easy job, nothing too dificult. Old fluid was like golden syrup, really dark and sticky. Took about half a day in all, now I can lock my brakes up at will!

Eezee bleed made things so quick, but don't forget to pressure test it first with no fluid it or it pisses everwhere!

HTH

Rich

Rich did you have to take the calipers off? I want to flush my fluid and wondering what the best approach is:

drain and refill
or
Flush

Flush every time.....

You don't happen to have any handy talk-through tutorials on how to do this do ya?

Mine was no problems at all, buy an easybleed thingy and it will take you about 2-3 hours.

Top tips:
/haynes
Simply jack up and remove wheel (I suppose it could be done in situ, but I was changing the hoses but backs would be difficult)

Pressure test the easybleed with no fluid in it first or you get high pressure fluid everywhere....!

Fill the easybleed and pressureise it from a spare tyre

Get a pop bottle and some tape, tape the bottle to the spare bit of bleed hose. Put an 11mm ring spanner over bleed nipple and attach the tube to the nipple.

Open the nipple (!)

Fluid will flow into the bottle... or not... I had to fiddle with one of the nipples (!!) as it was blocked dispite the nipple covers (!!!) I used a small allen key to unblock it.

Let it run until you are happy it is purged no bubbles and stella coloured (Castrol Super Dot 4 - Not treacle like mine) Its about 200-300ml per corner.

Close nipple but don't over torque. I checked the seal by watching the fluid level in the top of the nipple, once happy replace the cover.

Replace wheel. I checked for spongy brake pedal each time to ensure no air remains.

Repeat on each corner.

If you have disturbed the brake hoses or are unsure about air in the front caliper you will have to remove it and invert it to get the air from the top.

My brake pedal is now solid as a solid thing.

Few!

HTH Rich