Tut just read yourpost, " enough to keep up with me" come on admit it, your scared!!
ps Heard you were drunk to night as i had clare round earlier, said you wouldnt make our bondi, pity as we had a good noght. Anyway ive been up since three this morning so im off to bed. As for the engine im hoping it "maks phone poles ging by like palin posts!" now fa kens fit at meens.
S1 Vhpd complete
I thought I would throw in my 2p.
This engine K20a2 (euro spec) has a narrowband lambda sensor and not a wideband lambda sensor. Only the US and JDM engines get the wideband.
Make sure you get the whole engine loom and all the wiring and the gearbox and ecu to make life easier for the conversation.
Whatever you do fit a baffled sump Hytech make one of the best for the K series. Oil starvation is a problem with these engines on high G right-handers
A Quaife diff would also make it a much better conversion.
Sell that GruppeM and make some cash back.
There is a Hondata sticker on the front strut bar so I would guess Kpro/K100. get this remapped when you get the car running as the fuelling will be well out due to the kind of exhaust manifold you will have to use and the different intake. Also you need Kpro to disable the built in part of the Honda immobiliser on the ecu.
This engine can't be just dropped into Tuts car for a test to make sure its all good as the engine loom is different, as well as the ECU.
You will need to get custom mounts, larger fuel pump, some form of Air filter. As this is supercharged I would recommend getting a larger radiator as well due to the extra heat that is generated from the SC and its lack of intercooling. Also bear in mind that any coolant you use will have to be compatible with an aluminium block. There will be a million and one little things you will have to get, make sure you budget for this. even small things like changing the gear shifter mechanism. All need doing and paying for.
The stock Alarm/immobiliser are going to be an issue as well as all multiplex functions (speedo, rev limiter, coolant temp, etc) as you will have to figure out how to wire this to the ECU. again this will be slightly different to Tuts as it’s a different ECU.
I don't know about what drive shafts you will need not knowing the length's required. But if you need shorter ones you can use DC2 Integra ones they are a straight fit into the K. You can mix and match a lot of Honda Drive shafts but just make sure they are up to the job of handling the power. Enjo make drive shafts for the K-series and can handle a lot of power.
Lots of stuff I probably haven't even thought off.
This engine K20a2 (euro spec) has a narrowband lambda sensor and not a wideband lambda sensor. Only the US and JDM engines get the wideband.
Make sure you get the whole engine loom and all the wiring and the gearbox and ecu to make life easier for the conversation.
Whatever you do fit a baffled sump Hytech make one of the best for the K series. Oil starvation is a problem with these engines on high G right-handers
A Quaife diff would also make it a much better conversion.
Sell that GruppeM and make some cash back.
There is a Hondata sticker on the front strut bar so I would guess Kpro/K100. get this remapped when you get the car running as the fuelling will be well out due to the kind of exhaust manifold you will have to use and the different intake. Also you need Kpro to disable the built in part of the Honda immobiliser on the ecu.
This engine can't be just dropped into Tuts car for a test to make sure its all good as the engine loom is different, as well as the ECU.
You will need to get custom mounts, larger fuel pump, some form of Air filter. As this is supercharged I would recommend getting a larger radiator as well due to the extra heat that is generated from the SC and its lack of intercooling. Also bear in mind that any coolant you use will have to be compatible with an aluminium block. There will be a million and one little things you will have to get, make sure you budget for this. even small things like changing the gear shifter mechanism. All need doing and paying for.
The stock Alarm/immobiliser are going to be an issue as well as all multiplex functions (speedo, rev limiter, coolant temp, etc) as you will have to figure out how to wire this to the ECU. again this will be slightly different to Tuts as it’s a different ECU.
I don't know about what drive shafts you will need not knowing the length's required. But if you need shorter ones you can use DC2 Integra ones they are a straight fit into the K. You can mix and match a lot of Honda Drive shafts but just make sure they are up to the job of handling the power. Enjo make drive shafts for the K-series and can handle a lot of power.
Lots of stuff I probably haven't even thought off.
Thanks for the info lot of things ive been thinking of and some ive never. I was told the elise rad is capableof coping with a 300 horse engine so might need to do more research there. As you say wiring willbe difficult. once I have theengine and loom, ecu ill research more into it, my biggest concern is that I might need to use converters to cater for thelikes of speed senors etc. As they say "Ill cross that bridge". My first task is to get the engine in situ with driveshafts, then cooling, clutch and gears. Ive got a two month warranty on the engine so ideally I want it running by then but if it takes three or four so be it.
Well Tut it is Intelligent VTEC 
What I am saying about the Rad isn't down to power output but due to sheer heat the Eaton blower (that the JRSC uses) generates. Its one of the things that so called tuners don't mention or upgrade in the CTR world and will mean there are going to be a lot of sick engines in the next couple of years. Also with the engine being in the rear the heat will be greater.
I think I have a the ECU wiring diagram at the house for the plugs on the ecu will see if I can find it and post it.
What I am saying about the Rad isn't down to power output but due to sheer heat the Eaton blower (that the JRSC uses) generates. Its one of the things that so called tuners don't mention or upgrade in the CTR world and will mean there are going to be a lot of sick engines in the next couple of years. Also with the engine being in the rear the heat will be greater.
I think I have a the ECU wiring diagram at the house for the plugs on the ecu will see if I can find it and post it.
forgot to post this link for a exhaust header http://www.prototyperacing.com/dynok20b.htm
Prototype racing have a good rep for exhausts in the states
Prototype racing have a good rep for exhausts in the states
That was in fact Joe's famous WOA (work of art) manifold corbie. Looked fantastic, performed well, but as Neil said, it was fragile and fractured.
Ian Wilson and Swiss Bill were his first customers over here, they fitted his Honda kits shipped over from the states, but the manifolds cracked, and Maidstone had to replace them along with quite a bit of the rest of the kit.
However Joe did well recently with his S/C Honda Elise, coming 2nd in the
Car & Driver SuperFour Challenge. Part of the Challenge was a brake test from 140 tuts to 0, and he missed out on 1st place because he had standard wheels, tyres and brake pads fitted.
tut
Ian Wilson and Swiss Bill were his first customers over here, they fitted his Honda kits shipped over from the states, but the manifolds cracked, and Maidstone had to replace them along with quite a bit of the rest of the kit.
However Joe did well recently with his S/C Honda Elise, coming 2nd in the
Car & Driver SuperFour Challenge. Part of the Challenge was a brake test from 140 tuts to 0, and he missed out on 1st place because he had standard wheels, tyres and brake pads fitted.
tut
corbie
Whilst I was checking around for Craig, I was told that the Jackson lost efficiency as the engine and bay heated up, I think by Ollie at Phoenix Engineering.
I think ideally you would fit an intercooler, but none of the conversions seem to have one. Ollie said that they prefer the Rotrex S/C now over the Jackson, and are recommending and fitting it. They use an intercooler with no problem on the Exige, but have had to develop one for the Elise that fits under the wing due to space problems. It also puts out an extra 20hp over the JR.
tut
Whilst I was checking around for Craig, I was told that the Jackson lost efficiency as the engine and bay heated up, I think by Ollie at Phoenix Engineering.
I think ideally you would fit an intercooler, but none of the conversions seem to have one. Ollie said that they prefer the Rotrex S/C now over the Jackson, and are recommending and fitting it. They use an intercooler with no problem on the Exige, but have had to develop one for the Elise that fits under the wing due to space problems. It also puts out an extra 20hp over the JR.
tut
tut wrote: However Joe did well recently with his S/C Honda Elise, coming 2nd in the
Car & Driver SuperFour Challenge. Part of the Challenge was a brake test from 140 tuts to 0, and he missed out on 1st place because he had standard wheels, tyres and brake pads fitted.
tut
He had a car (or maybe just an engine) in the 24 hour brit car race last year and it exploded in the first 20 laps. I have nothing against the guy personally, as i have had no dealing with him. i just thought that it was worth pointing out incase craig went with him and lost a heap of cash.
Yes Tut I do agree it is a WOA. didn't know about the weld problems not heard about that on the Honda side of things for their manifolds/exhausts. From the pics it looks like a well designed and space friendly header.
I think that brakes should be an important thing to upgrade as well due to the sheer power this will be putting out.
Also another thing to think about is if you are doing a lot of track work is an oil cooler with a bypass valve. So it only kicks in when the temps get hot, rather than all the time.
The JRSC at 11psi generates a huge amount of heat as you start to lose power. The 5PSI pulley and 7 PSI pulley don't generate power losing heat but can generate enough heat to damage your engine in the long run.
The unfortunate thing about the design of the JRSC manifold mean it’s a nightmare to plumb in a intercooler JR have been talking about one for years but it hasn't happened yet. A few people have tried making one and nobody has really been successful.
The Rotrex kit is interesting I haven't seen it first hand but its power delivery seems more like a turbo than a SC e.g. very little power then loads from the dyno charts I've seen.
regarding an extra 20hp over the JR it is a hard comparison to make as PSI for PSI the JR wins up to a point. The concern I would have with the Rotrex is that you are running higher PSI to make the same sort of bhp and how much strain that is putting on the bottom end. if you rebuild the bottom end then it wouldn't be a problem.
but its not about peak power to me it’s about the area under curve that’s what is really important.
mckeann
Regarding what you are saying it is always good to point out the good and bad things tuners do. I did hear about his engine going pop but that could be down to something that was not his fault or maybe it was. its one of those things you will never know unless you were there when the engine was torn down.
I will say that there are a lot of so called professional tuners out there who I wouldn't touch with a 20ft barge pole yet due to good advertising and a few fan boys have a great rep. when they don't have a fundamental knowledge of engines far less tuning. This is a very general comment and not aimed at any company.
I think that brakes should be an important thing to upgrade as well due to the sheer power this will be putting out.
Also another thing to think about is if you are doing a lot of track work is an oil cooler with a bypass valve. So it only kicks in when the temps get hot, rather than all the time.
The JRSC at 11psi generates a huge amount of heat as you start to lose power. The 5PSI pulley and 7 PSI pulley don't generate power losing heat but can generate enough heat to damage your engine in the long run.
The unfortunate thing about the design of the JRSC manifold mean it’s a nightmare to plumb in a intercooler JR have been talking about one for years but it hasn't happened yet. A few people have tried making one and nobody has really been successful.
The Rotrex kit is interesting I haven't seen it first hand but its power delivery seems more like a turbo than a SC e.g. very little power then loads from the dyno charts I've seen.
regarding an extra 20hp over the JR it is a hard comparison to make as PSI for PSI the JR wins up to a point. The concern I would have with the Rotrex is that you are running higher PSI to make the same sort of bhp and how much strain that is putting on the bottom end. if you rebuild the bottom end then it wouldn't be a problem.
but its not about peak power to me it’s about the area under curve that’s what is really important.
mckeann
Regarding what you are saying it is always good to point out the good and bad things tuners do. I did hear about his engine going pop but that could be down to something that was not his fault or maybe it was. its one of those things you will never know unless you were there when the engine was torn down.
I will say that there are a lot of so called professional tuners out there who I wouldn't touch with a 20ft barge pole yet due to good advertising and a few fan boys have a great rep. when they don't have a fundamental knowledge of engines far less tuning. This is a very general comment and not aimed at any company.
Just spoke to the engine seller and wont recieve it till fri, so until then Ill just have to wait or make assumptions as to the engines spec. Corbie whats the story with the thermostat on the honda is it attached to the block or is it remote? Im using a remote stat just now so wondered if it will also need modding, it opens at 91 degrees is this too hot?
As regards a manifold I think my best bet is to buy direct from maidstone or pheonix if they will let me of course. Power improvments can wait till the engines running. Cheers Craig.
As regards a manifold I think my best bet is to buy direct from maidstone or pheonix if they will let me of course. Power improvments can wait till the engines running. Cheers Craig.
The stock thermostat is remote see http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ ... ooling.jpg
I do have the equivalent of the Haynes manual for the Integra/RSX there are some differences to the CTR but many things in common you can download it from here http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/ if you have problems then I can send you my copy.
The stock thermostat starts open at 76-80C and then is fully open at 90C
Here are the only wiring diagrams I have on my PC for the ECU.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ ... wiring.gif
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ ... 8hdfbv.jpg
I do have the equivalent of the Haynes manual for the Integra/RSX there are some differences to the CTR but many things in common you can download it from here http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/ if you have problems then I can send you my copy.
The stock thermostat starts open at 76-80C and then is fully open at 90C
Here are the only wiring diagrams I have on my PC for the ECU.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ ... wiring.gif
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ ... 8hdfbv.jpg
