Winter Strip Down and Rebuild (Done and Dusted)

[hiscot]

Mike your setup is right out is out as per your photo

mike looking at your oil pipe photo , is your out and return mixed up ?
found this thread on seloc
http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php? ... pid3706077
???
might be worth checking

I checked this against the oil paths shown in the rover supplement in the Elise manual. The oil filter housing central pillar (the bit the fiter screws onto) should be the feed from the oil pump. The oil then flows through the filter and out through the hole in the base plate into the main oil gallery to feed the crank and head. Assuming the diagram is right then I have it the right way round. If however the manual is wrong then its backwards which will mean having to swap round the 2 hoses on the feed side of the oil stat. Will see when I prime the oil system which hose is feed and which is return just to confirm but pretty sure it's right, unless someone knows differently.

Robin, I will have a look through what you a have written when I have more time. At work just now, will read it all in the morning, cheers for your help with it BTW.

[Mikie711]

Cheers Bob, OK home again so once I get some kitchen mods out of the way it will be back to work on the car.
Last of my parts are here and I have ordered a Walbro 255 fuel pump to replace my standard one.

[hiscot]

mike i ve been using the 255 pump for two years , as a road car without issue
but its a single stage pump , were as the std pump pumps into the pump housing then second stage pumps from the housing canister to the filter that is so that if you are low on fuel under hard cornering and the fuel shoots to the other end of the tank the housing will always be primed and hold fuel until your around the corner
the walbro takes its fuel direct from the tank , there are reports that on long bends at track it can cause fuel starvation
never been a problem for me but bear it in mind if you run an emptyish tank for track
i always intended getting a forge alloy foam filled tank std weighs a ton
pro alloy also do a valved tank
ps whilst its out clean the fuel sender contacts ( very fine wet / dry ) for a steady gauge

[Mikie711]

I do tend to run the tank half full anyway as I don't really trust the Lotus gauge so always err on the side of caution. The extra weight won't make that much difference anyway. Was looking at the balls you can fill your tank with which help reduce fuel surge and baffle the tank but for the price of them probably as well putting it to a new tank sometime in the future.

[Mikie711]

Kitchen duties finished so back to work on the Elise. Tidied up a bunch of loose ends today, finished bolting in the gearbox, hosed up the engine, fitted the new coil pack and started laying in the wiring so I can see what changes need to be made.



Need to split open the loom and re-position some stuff. Coil trigger wiring, change the injector wiring and lay in the extra wires for the xoombox. Next couple of days are going to be a pain but needs doing.
Will also be removing the fuel tank, unfortunately I didn't have the foresight to empty the bloody thing and it's at least half full.

[Mikie711]

Have just come across a really good site for VVC wiring info. All you wanted to know but were afraid to ask............

Visit here

[Mikie711]

I have a question. I was/am wanting to run a baro sensor of some description to correct the fueling for atmospheric pressure changes. On the original engine this was measured as manifold absolute pressure together with an air temp sensor behind the throttle butterfly, but with throttle bodies I can't do this. My plan was to run a VVC MAP sensor in the air box but now not sure that this will work as the pressure changes wouldn't be as great in an airbox as they would be in a plenum. Anybody any thoughts or experience of this and any ideas to a possible solution different sensor etc?

[robin]

Although in both cases you would use the same sensor the ECU uses these two measurements differently.

The MAP sensor on the engine side of the throttle body is measuring the actual pressure the inlet valves are currently experiencing and thus (combined with inlet air temperature and knowledge of the volumetric efficiency of the engine at the current engine speed) tell the ECU how much air is going in and thus how much fuel is required. The MAP sensor is used as the primary load indicator in this configuration.

You won't be using the sensor for that, because you'll be using the throttle position sensor as the primary load indicator (so-called alpha-N). So all you need to measure is the atmospheric pressure and use it as a trim on fuelling.

The bottom line is that the sensor range is adequate for either task (primary load indicator or barometric trim). If you use a TMAP sensor as used in the S2 engines, it combines temperature and pressure sensor in a single unit.

Cheers,
Robin

[hiscot]

mike lower your tank on a trolly jack they are very heavy even without fuel, you will want to lower the tank slightly as this gives better access to release the fuel pipes on the tank/pump , from inside the car , then fully drop
regarding the bario i use one its a stand alone mounted near the ecu connected of course to the ecu and it only vents to free air you will only require a 1 bar for bario the one i use is quite cheap and very effective

[mwmackenzie]

Been folowing this thread and wow what a great spec car your going to end up with, all most impressive, all the ecu work is really interseting.... I'm so jealous, looks awesome

Great work & well done, looing forward to seeing your car on track.

Mark

[Mikie711]

Robin, again thanks for your input, much appreciate. Hadn't considered the TMAP sensor but as I have a MAP I might as well use it. Mounting it to the back plate between 3 & 4 cylinder intake (only because there was a convenient hole already there) all that remains is working out the sensor output for the Emerald. Don't even know if it will make that much difference as the car will be run in adaptive mapping mode using the PLX wideband lambda. As for the intake temp that will be the standard green sensor once I find a nut to fit it's thread. Will be working on the wiring over the next day or two but first need to get the tank out and fit the fuel pump. Hopefully it will be an improvement over the standard one flow and pressure wise. Wiring the injectors is the biggest bug bear, need to figure out how to wire them to the xoombox in such a way that it can be easily undone should any problems develop. One way is to make a bridge plug at the xoombox end that will jump out the box. The other is to make a dedicated sub loom for the injectors that can be switched for the standard one.
If I've got it right the xoombox needs to see the injector signal but control the injector power feed so I think I will make up a new injector loom and use the swap out method should mean I can keep the original plug on the main loom side and not have to butcher that part of the wiring.

Been folowing this thread and wow what a great spec car your going to end up with, all most impressive, all the ecu work is really interseting.... I'm so jealous, looks awesome

Great work & well done, looing forward to seeing your car on track.

Mark

Mark, that's assuming it doesn't go BANG at the first turn of the key and that it will actually run!!!!!!!!!!!!. More faith than me my friend

[Rich H]

If I can make MS work on an elderly Porsche with lashed up scrapyard parts, you better be able to make that thing run with all those snazzy new bits!

[Mikie711]

Let's just say it's turning out to be a fair bit more highly strung than I intended, and given the K series propensity for expiring in clouds of smoke for little or no apparent reason I will be surprised, nae amazed if it lasts a whole season of getting the sh!t kicked out of it. But it's still fun and the rest of the bits will work equally as well with a honda or audi engine . Not a word tut, not a word.........

[pete]

Mike I've just discovered this thread. Wow.

(Errrm could you not just have washed it, maybe given it a hoover? )

[Andy G]

Mike - want to start on mine when your done, just for thread continuation purposes!

Awesome effort - reminds me of all the RLC posts from my season in LOTRDC when Robin, I, and many others were trying to take my S1 shed and make it a race winning class A LOTRDC car