Changing rear pads now - Help needed

[Deany1986]

Hi Picture below shows where i am at present. I have removed the pad retaining pin and the bolt holding the caliper onto the hub to allow me to rotate the caliper down to be able to remove the inside pad and wind the piston back in.

However i cant move the caliper down as where indicated with the orange arrow on the pic below part of the caliper assembly still remains in the hole at this location on hub.



Should this just knock out allowing the caliper to rotate?

Help appreciated,

kevin.

[tenkfeet]

There is an Allen key bolt also . HAve you undone that ?

[Deany1986]

Not undone an allen key bolt, is this the bolt at the second part where the caliper attaches to the hub similar to the bolt i have undone?

Have just managed to tilt the calliper back there, was being a bit overly gentle with it. Should this allen key bolt howeber still be removed if not removing the calliper completely and just rotating?

Thanks.

[Gourlay83]

Yes, you have to remove the Allen Key Bolt.

Once that is out you can slide the caliper from the disc, allowing you to replace the pads.

Note

There are caliper Slides on the Rear Caliper (Where the Bolts go through). You are better to remove them, clean them up and re grease. Make sure the Caliper faces are clean and free of rust (The Face that the pad will sit on when the caliper is on the car). Makes a nicer job and keeps your rear brakes free and moving.

Best Of Luck
Alan

[Deany1986]

Thanks for the quick replies guys

[tut]

Remember to copperslip the bolts before you refit.

tut

[alicrozier]

Remember to copperslip the bolts before you refit.

tut

Eh?
Surely you meant Loctite? Maybe that's why your calipers keep falling off...

[tut]

Never heard of Loctite on caliper bolts Ali, just copperslip to prevent corrosion.

tut

[Gourlay83]

Hate to get Technical but.....

In my experience you should never copper slip a Thread but the Shaft of the Bolt (if it has one).

[Deany1986]

I have always put copper grease on bolts as well to stop tem rusting and seizing on, never had a problem with it.

Brake pads changed successfully. Cheers for the replies.

Kevin.

[BiggestNizzy]

I am in the pro threadlock camp on anything that doesn't have a spring washer or the like.

[tut]

Could be wrong, but I think it is from copying Robin, Craig etc.

A fairly important point, so we should get a fix on whether tis or not.

tut

[steve_weegie]

Coppaslip goes on the back of the pad and doesnt hurt to put a bit on the sliding pins either - will stop things squeaking. Loctite anything with a thread on the calipers as this will prevent vibrations working things loose (caliper is unsprung and subject to a lot of vibration & temp changes) and will also prevent corrosion of the threads

[Gourlay83]

Many people and Garages do but here is the reasons why I was always told not to.

Much easier to Over Tighten and stretch threads

You have a barrier of grease in between threads which stops the Threads from tightning properly.

When i was serving my time i used to do the same thing thinking that i was doing the right thing. Then one of the Old Hands stopped me and told me why i shouldn't. Made sense and haven't since.

Alan

[roadboy]

Think I'll stay out of the copperslip/threadlock debate but will say, you DO NOT have to remove the allen bolt to change the pads.

Remove the upper bolt as you have then place a flat blade screwdriver on the shoulder of the slider (the bit the bolt went through) and give it a gentle tap with a hammer. This will dislodge it from the upright. You can tilt the caliper away from the discs and remove the pads. Taking the allen bolt out is a pain in the arse as the handbrake cable is in the way.

You may find it easier to tap the front pad out with a hammer before you tilt the caliper away from the disc. Particularly if there is a bit of a lip on the discs.

HTH

Dan