A day at Rickys..........

tuscan_thunder · Post by **tuscan_thunder** » Wed May 09, 2007 11:28 am

very odd. ordinarily, I'd have suggested the themostat - ie, the sensor was telling the car it was cold and causing it to overfuel but if you've checked that, that's out.

I'm going back to basics now so if you've tried these things ignore!

The 'daughter board communication error' to me, suggests it is perhaps not an airleak but the pulsing of revs suggests it is an airleak.

I am unfamiliar with the intake for the butterfly on the Honda but if you hold your hand over the intake the car should stall, or at least the revs should drop. If they don't then there's air somewhere, I'd wager.

I'd check the connections from ECU to the daughter board next

(obviously, a trial with a different ECU will highlight the problem but they're not exactly thick on the ground!)

edit: GOOD LUCK!

hiscot · Post by **hiscot** » Wed May 09, 2007 12:02 pm

Hi Tut
dont know if this is any help but it seems a common problem
another cause i read about is change / flush coolent and bleed
i guess its waxstat related again

http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showthr ... ?p=2894634

ps dont even know if you have a fitv
another post said his fault was the o ring leaking

r10crw · Post by **r10crw** » Wed May 09, 2007 12:07 pm

If it was an air leak would it not happen constantly not just after a few seconds or after warming up?, and since the fluctuations are constant in amplitude then it would suggest that the fault is electrically controlled leaving the fault with the ecu or iacv.
Tut im working all day but you should have a look at how much work it is to remove the ecu from n1. It was very tight when I put it in (put the clam over the ecu) but if you can unplug it so that the connectors reach the krpo well be able to eliminate the ecu. Cheers Craig

hiscot · Post by **hiscot** » Wed May 09, 2007 12:27 pm

tut wrote: From cold, it now starts at 2000rpm, drops to 1400 as it warms up. This used to be 1200 and 900.
tut

sorry craig tut says the problem is from cold/startup and constantly
so maybe air leak/ ivac/fitv related ?

r10crw · Post by **r10crw** » Wed May 09, 2007 12:57 pm

Granted but when its up to temperature the rpm is no longer constant but cycles from 1000 to 3000. An air leak fault would be constant regardless of engine coolant temp. The car is also running very rich, his fuel consumption has halfed? Tut you did say but I cant remember.

tut · Post by **tut** » Wed May 09, 2007 4:02 pm

Yep, got 100 miles from the last tank.

John

If I put my hand across the T/B mouth at the steady idle of 1500 without touching the throttle, it stays about the same, but tries to pull my skin off.

If do the same after opening the throttle and it starts hunting, it steadies at 2000 and still tries to pull the skin off.

tut

ps perfect 3" suction mark now on my hand

mac · Post by **mac** » Wed May 09, 2007 4:37 pm

tut wrote:
ps perfect 3" suction mark now on my hand

Don't be telling Verian that - she'll be using it as a rule

Mac

tut · Post by **tut** » Thu May 17, 2007 11:38 pm

Finally solved after three weeks. The clue lay in the engine not cutting out when you blocked off the T/B, ie it had to be getting the air from elsewhere.

Took it over to Rickys today, and he traced it to a bolt missing from the bottom edge of the S/C casing. Bugger to get to from underneath and insert another one, it needed a 2 foot long and thin angled extension with a knuckle joint at the end for the socket.

Big relief as I really thought it was something serious, probably the S/C itself. I had been directed to a SELOC thread to read of the number of owners who had the inlet manifold on the S/C crack, one of whom was on his third one. However these were all the UK Civic Type-R kit fit, mine is a stonger and better manifold, and two of them had replaced their originals with this one.

tut