CubanGav wrote:It would be fun chasing you though Tut.
no sc hondas are history........RIP
CubanGav wrote:It would be fun chasing you though Tut.
CubanGav wrote:I have too ask..... How much for a D? I understand if its not something you want to give away.
JD Motor Engineers in Inch up here.
No idea.KingK_series wrote:CubanGav wrote:I have too ask..... How much for a D? I understand if its not something you want to give away.
JD Motor Engineers in Inch up here.
and what do they do? just fit or build too?
smee wrote:J D have always been good to me, down to earth decent guys. Petrol heads and they hill climb. Skimming and decking is contracted out to an engineering company in Blackburn.
Quite correct there Simon, my two have a history of over 300,000 miles and well over a hundred track days, with the engine and gearboxes never being touched.KingK_series wrote:CubanGav wrote:It would be fun chasing you though Tut.
no sc hondas are history........RIP
tut wrote:Quite correct there Simon, my two have a history of over 300,000 miles and well over a hundred track days, with the engine and gearboxes never being touched.KingK_series wrote:CubanGav wrote:It would be fun chasing you though Tut.
no sc hondas are history........RIP
tut
campbell wrote:Ignoring the contradiction from start and end of the quote aboveKingK_series wrote:
the solution;-
remove clam
remove head, strip and hardness test DO NOT SKIM UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES.
If the head is less than 95 brinnel on a recently calibrated modern digital hardness tester [ costing 2 grand which is why most garages/dealers do not have them] it is scrap.
If the head is above 95 brinnel - DO NOT SKIM, reassemble and reuse
Always strip short end, and DO DECK the block plus liner shoulders to straighten and give correct liner standproud of 4 thou
remove and replace plastic dowels with steel ones
remove old thermostat and replace with 82deg PRT.
use new OE longbolts
check and replace radiator for leaking plastic end caps, Proalloy do a good replacement.
This is the best that can be done without altering the water flow through the engine and a properly designed water pump,
these measures are therefore NOT a solution but will manage the problem sufficiently well to enjoy the engine and car., this seems like a rather useful post which demystifies a whole load of K engine voodoo....
Thanks! Useful info.KingK_series wrote:Peter wrote:It's an interesting post. My question would be..
If you bought a fully functioning K series Elise, what (if anything) would your recommend as a series of pro-active steps to increase it's longevity?
a/ for min effort, just fit with a 82 DEG PRT
b/ for medium effort , strip, deck, fit and balance to lightweight single piece flywheel.
c/ for bombproofing, strip, deck, deck liner shoulders, flywheel + balance, mod waterways, modded gasket [for waterway mods] competition water pump
d/ for max fun, fit 2L KingK engine, forget "HGF", and go murder sc hondas.!
but c/ requires parts that are not commercially available
Peter wrote:
Thanks! Useful info.
Unlike Dom!!