Project Build - Elise GT: Honda Swap / Widebody Conversion

[MacLotus]

Thanks Alan. Your wiring diagrams were spot-on perfect!

Never had one problem with electrical!

[pete]

Thanks Alan. Your wiring diagrams were spot-on perfect!

Never had one problem with electrical!

Just to clarify Mac a lot of us have invested a lot of time in reading your thread.

We expect, nay DEMAND, that these posts continue and include videos of you on track etc.

(Awesome car).

[MacLotus]

LOL Pete!! As you know, I ran on a campaign based on full transparency!

I still plan to post lots of info on the corner balance & weight changes, as well as MANY track videos (and issues that arise). Full disclosure!!

Getting some new Hankook slicks this next week. They'll be heat cycled as well, so I'll report on those as well. Had to go with 205's up front and 245's in the rear... so a bit wider, but I'm running a lot of negative camber. Here they are.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp ... entus+Z214

Also, you may recall the Traqmate data logger I installed? I hacked the software and started creating my own digital dash overlays in HD. Here's a test on a friend's car. While his video was not HD, you still get the idea. I'm still programming the brake and progressive throttle indicators, as well as the shift lights (very small right above gear indicator). So the videos will be top notch!! Here's a test sample...

http://www.vimeo.com/21323078

[dirkpitt]

Greetings my faithful forum following! We finally near the end of this incredible project as I have finally put the car on the dyno and driven it. As expected.... Wow!! It's a little scary... but then I just need some time to get used to it.

After the successful first starts and adjustments to AFR, I reinstalled the rear clam shell and buttoned things up for the trip to Full Blown Motorsports for the dyno. After starting it back up with the clam in place, I noticed those 'over-the-top' headers can generate some heat. While things probably would have been just fine, I felt the rear deck lid was getting a little warm without airflow (at idle when the car is not moving). I managed to find some 1/4" heat barrier on eBay and with the help of some double-sided carpet tape and some aluminum duct tape, I was able to create an amazingly efficient heat barrier for my rear deck lid.



I think it looks great and the deck lid is absolutely cool to the touch... and I might add the cool zone is as cool as can be!! Even after 15 minutes at idle.



Lastly, I decided to change the rear license plate from 'Rover Power' to 'Frankenstein'.


____________________________________________________________________________

"Sometimes it becomes necessary to dig up the right parts to create the perfect beast."
- Dr. Victor Frankenstein

Lotus Chassis... TSX Block... Z3 Head... RSX Type S Transmission... Hondata Brains... To his memory shall this build be dedicated.
____________________________________________________________________________

And now, after much anticipation... the dyno video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dlQCyW0t0Ys

Some of you may have expected more... I know I was. My target was 275whp. After much discussion with LJ at Full Blown Motorsports (my tuner), we believe the HP (or lack there-of) is attributable to two things... or more aptly put, two decisions I made during the build process. Cam choice and sticking with the 25 degree TSX VTC.

Originally, I had planned to use IPS K10's with a 50 degree VTC gear, but after discussing the issue with Larry @ Endyn, and the risk involved when using 12.5:1 pistons on a high-rpm K24 (bottom end designed for 9500 rpm), I didn't want to chance piston to valve collision at full spin.

I also opted to go with Endyn's cam, which is very smooth, but may be more of a mild Stage 1 (when compared to other cams on the market). Here's the specs on the Endyn Cams.

Endyn Intake Cam



Endyn Exhaust Cam



Here's the dyno graph...



As I approached this build, I never really made my priority power or torque, but rather dependability and longevity on the track. I also didn't want so much power, it took the fun out of driving this car. So my attitude leaving the dyno was 'It is what it is. It's never been about the numbers. If after driving the car a season on the track, that I feel I need more power... change the cams and machine a TSX VTC to 45 degrees and stick it in. Then you'll have your 280whp."

So with that... I drive it for the first time (albeit my neighborhood and not the track).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyvM606EL-w

All I can say is that based on what I felt from the car, this is more than ample power for a 1650 lb track car. I will have to re-learn how to drive the car (given its new attitude), so maybe a season under my belt and I'll opt to go with more aggressive cams and VTC... but maybe not? Time will tell.

Next stop is to have the car corner balanced and put on it's new Hankook slicks... then it's on to the track for some fun (May 2nd @ BIR). Hope to see you there!

And stay tuned for some exciting track video, as I just finished designing a cool new digital dash overlay with all the car's telemetry (in HD).

Stay tuned... Mac out!

hi Mac,

A avid fan of your work here from the other side of the pond
i don’t think i have the words for the blood sweet and tears you have put into this project, but you have my utter most respect for probably the most professional conversion i have ever seen!....mucho kudos!

anyway, i have a few question on your dyno runs.........

i was wondering what fuel were you using? ....im assuming a high octane fuel for a high compression ratio such as 12.5:1.
i dont know what is a valuable in the US at the pumps?.....in the UK the best we get is 99 octane(although they have experimented with higher at some point). In Japan i believe they us even higher octane fuel......

as this is a Japanese designed engine with a high compression a high octane fuel would be the way to go.....this would allow for some further timing changes and some significant gain in horse power...maybe 15 or so!!.......

anyway just a thought.

another thing that crossed my mind is that the engine is brand spanking new!
i am guessing its not run in yet so will not be producing it's optimise potential. in saying that i am not sure how much gain you will get once run in properly, maybe a few hp......

keep the good work up!

best regards,

leigh

[MacLotus]

Hi Leigh,

Thanks for the compliments. More a labor of love than skilled craftsmanship. That and maybe a little too much time on my hands?

i was wondering what fuel were you using?

I'm using 110 octane leaded fuel at about $6.75 per gallon. If this were not available, I would have used 100 octane unleaded or possible set up a meth injection system (significantly reduces pre-combustion).

another thing that crossed my mind is that the engine is brand spanking new! i am guessing its not run in yet so will not be producing it's optimise potential. in saying that i am not sure how much gain you will get once run in properly, maybe a few hp......

These engines are pretty much 'broken in' by the end of the dyno runs. It's important to run them up under power... and then let them run down under drag to ensure the rings seat on both sides (top & bottom). Larry at Endyn said the engine is fine up to 9500 rpm, but we chose to keep it around 8200 max. It's important not to baby the engine too much either.

Lastly, I think there's a point where excessive HP/Trq become counter-productive on the track, especially when tire size is limited. This set-up should be great. More to come on weight, balance, feel, and performance!

Ken

[BiggestNizzy]

I'm using 110 octane leaded fuel at about $6.75 per gallon.
Ken

or £0.925l

[MacLotus]

Most of the guys here run E85 (ethanol mix) for street/daily driving, at around $3 per gal, but the car will use about 30% more fuel. Obviously requires special tuning... and a more robust fuel delivery system.

[dirkpitt]

hi mac,

well your answers put pay to my ideas .

110 octaine is mighty! but you say leaded!....wow, i guess there still happy to use lead in the US, also, lead is quite corrosive on the exhaust valves and seats i would imagine?....surprised that the fuel people havent found an addative to help cool any preheating of the fuel so it doesnt ignite...

so whats next? geo set up and weight reduction?........im hearing that a weight balance of 53% rear and 47% front is ideal....looking at the SELOC forum over here most elises are around 60% rear and 40% front, so trimming some weight from the back to front would look like the obvious....
but, if you want to get techi …..its all about looking at the COG point of the car, and how that moves in relation to the weight loss as the fuel decreases......and then how the car behaves…

leigh

[MacLotus]

Leaded fuel is ONLY allowable in off-road vehicles. While it is a bit corrosive on engine components, that pretty much comes into consideration on engines intended to run 100,000 miles. I'll probably rebuild every 20K miles, but that's 10 years on a track car. That said, it is pretty hard on sensors so they might get replaced sooner.

Corner balance and geo is set up for the 14th. I put the new 'meaty' slicks on yesterday (205/50's front / 245/50's rear). You can certainly tell they're bigger as the car looks a bit more aggressive. Photos to follow.

[MacLotus]

As some of you may know, the Lotus Elise Series 1 Sport 190 (European Market) has some rather unique tire sizes which can be quite difficult to source here in the U.S. (specifically the front tires). Because of the PIA factor (& cost) involved in shipping tires from the UK, I decided to try some performance track tires (DOT Slicks) in a slightly larger size. I'm posting this information primarily for those S1 owners looking a little more grip from a wider track tire. It's also my intent to post how the tires perform on the track as the Hankook Ventus slicks are rather new to the US market.

OEM - Front Tires - 195/50R/15 Yokohama Advan - (195 x 50% = 97.5mm Wide)
OEM - Rear Tires - 225/45R/16 Yokohama Advan - (225 x 45% = 101.25mm Wide)

After looking at the Hoosiers, Kumho, and Hankook's, I opted for the Hankook Ventus Z214.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp ... entus+Z214

The smallest 15 inch performance tire I could source was a 205/50R/15, which is slightly taller and wider. These would also probably fit a little better on a 6.5-7" wheel, where mine is 6".

205 x 50% = 102.5mm (+5mm H - +10mm W)



After installing them, I took a drive around the block and maxed out my steering both left and right (tight U-Turn) without rubbing. I also tried some compressed-suspension turns, but obviously difficult to emulate the race track (at least without pissing off my neighbors). Still no rubbing or contact. I am running negative camber so that may help too.



For the rear tires, I had a choice between a 225/50 or a 245/45.

225 x 50% = 112.5mm (+11mm H - 0 mm W)
245 x 45% = 110.25mm (+9mm H - +22mm W)

I chose the latter (245/45) and they seem pretty darn meaty. Now I did have rubbing problems with the OE tires when running the OE Koni Dampers/springs, but that was cured when I installed Nitrons with Eibach Springs with spring helpers (500lb springs front/750lb springs rear). They never rubbed again. Now I've gone even larger, and still no rubbing... but only the track will truly tell.



I have to say, they look a LOT beefier than the smaller ADVAN's.



The car will be weighed, corner balanced, and other geometry tweaks on April 14th, so I'll post 'before/after conversion' info for those interested.

[MacLotus]

Went to 'Cars & Coffee' this weekend and another car enthusiast shot this video of me while I was unloading the car. Sounds good! Wheels spin pretty easily!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3sHFgbvhIU

Thanks for posting!

[Ferg]

Looks like a bucket full of torque! Very nice...

[tut]

Great result Ken, N3 TUT's body work used to look like yours, but USED TO are the operative words.

Keep the posts coming, love to see how she goes on track.

tut

[MacLotus]

Hi Tut,

I have the MOST difficult time reading your posts. I get one... maybe two words read... then my eye's dart left... I lose my train of thought... recompose... start to read again... left eye gets distracted... repeat 3-4 times... turn off computer and go visit wife.

She keeps telling me whatever forum I'm visiting... keep it up.

[tut]

Keep it up being the operative word Ken, though where you get the energy from after the car project I do not know.



tut