Converting VVC heads to work on EU2 engines is an expensive enterprise:
You'll need cams and blanking kit. The VVC head uses a camshaft with much larger journals, so there are special cams to replace the moving parts with solid.
Piper sells these, but DVA is the place to get them I think -
http://www.dvapower.com - look at the bottom of the page - he has some pricing for this stuff:
solid cams for VVC head: 410
blanking kit for VVC mech: 115
I don't even know whether the solid cams for the VVC have a distributor drive - somehow I suspect they do not because the blanking kit, also made and sold by piper, is designed to blank off that end of the head, which was not designed to take a distributor in the first place.
Converting to wasted spark ignition (thus avoiding the need for a distributor) requires an ECU at xxx pounds.
You'll never get 160 out of it without more investment - in full normal guise the EU2 engine made 143 and the EU3 engine made 156. Remember at full chat the VVC has quite a long duration and already has big valves and a fair amount of lift - changing to cams with more than the "270" profile (264 duration/9.5mm lift ish) is going to take you beyond the capabilities of your ECU. This too would lead you to xxx pounds on a new ECU.
The inlet manifold on your car will mate to the VVC head, but the port matching will be poor, so you'll either want the metal plenum off the VVC engine (perhaps you have it too), or you'll need to fettle the plastic plenum to be a better match.
My advice - fleabay the head, spend the proceeds plus the money you would have spent on cams for the VVC engine on getting your existing head done to the bigger inlet valve Kiwirog spec and plop it back on your car - 145+ BHP on totally standard everything else, very driveable
You can get to 160 by adding cams + verniers; any more and you will for sure need a new ECU (at 160 it will already be running very lean on full throttle and the ignition timing will be dangerously advanced).
Cheers,
Robin
