steve_weegie wrote:
1. How do i tell in advance if i've got a manual or auto tensioner?
IIRC Lotus will tell you if you give your chassis number (MMC parts in other words), failing that you need to look, in my experience most modern standard non VVC's are auto and all tweaked engines (and perhaps VVC) are manual. Autos tend not to control the belt tension at higher revs as well as manuals . . .
2. Where can i buy a cam locking tool from?
Any motor factors, partco for ex, IIRC Halfords sell draper ones, I'd get a proper one designed for the K series . . .
3. The service manual shows the bottom end being locked at the flywheel, but doesnt this mean the gearbox has to come off!?!
No, You can lock the flywheel sufficiently to loosen the crank pulley bolt using 5th gear and a monkey to press the brake pedal while you give it laldy with a big breaker bar. Don't use any other gear - it won't work, if you're bored try to work out why . . .
. . . if your're confident in your handbrake you can use that too but doing that whilst under the car with it on ramps is less than clever from a health and safety POV.
4. Are there any special tools i'll need?
Good set of drive on ramps and some axle stands for your own safety, Cam locking tool, decent breaker bar (and the knowledge when and when NOT to use one - they are not called breaker bars for nothing), threadlock (NOT studlock), cut down 22mm socket, 8mm ratchet spanner makes removing cam belt cover bolts much easier (and alternator tensioner)
5. Is it a pig to do!
Not really as long as you take your time and realise that fscking up the belt alignment will probably be terminal for the engine - so treble check it and if not sure stop and get somebody who knows to help, also always crank the engine over VERY GENTLY a minimum of 2 full crank revs (I take the plugs out usually to make it easier) to MAKE SURE you have not got any belt fitting issues . . . the crank pulley bolt will be f.tight and will need to be f.tight when you finish (also use a little threadlock for safety), thi s is the main problem for most people . . . also the two 18mm headed bolts on the RHD engine mount can be very tight, be carefull not to damage the heads by using crappy tools (have seen this before). There are some simple (but difficult to describe in words) techniques for getting the belt on first time every time correctly, but you really need to see it done . . . You also should be methodical with threadlock, almost everything should be threadlocked and is at manufacture (the bolts are all pretreated) . . . people tend not to do this then wonder why bolts come undone and grenade their engine . . .
I can probably change an Elise belt in 1.5-2 hours but plan on 4+ for your first attempt depending on rusted fasteners in the wheel arches, etc . . .
6. Should i give up now and find someone to do the belt for me
Your first one is always stressful, but if you never try you'll never learn . . . but having said that it's not a 1 spanner job . . . I think it's best to help/watch/be supervised if you're not sure . . .
Fd
