DIY Honda Conversion

jj · Post by jj » Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:36 pm

Given the problems that some people have with professionally installed Honda engines, the last thing I`d want to do it drive a car with one I had fitted myself

If I was spending £6K, it is still a lot of cash, and if I was in a position to be burning that sort of wedge I`d just pay someone to do it properly as its a total idulgence anyway and would have to be coming out of disposable income so it might as well be the pro install. "If you can afford to buy two you can buy and run one" idea people say about owning a Lambo or the like.

I have the cash free to do neither so its just my opinion, but I`d be getting Dan to do it and saving a lot of worry and grief.

woody · Post by **woody** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:54 pm

If I'd the time, money, inclination, garage space, and another car to run, i'd like to diy. Facncy the challenge. I'd need to have serious spare wedge to pay someone £10k to do it.

full diy would be interesting as well, esp if you'd the like's of Nizzy's work at your disposal.

BiggestNizzy · Post by **BiggestNizzy** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 11:27 pm

just give me a drawing (but be patient

)

r055 · Post by **r055** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 8:15 am

Agree with woodys style.
I don't need it as a daily drive so wouldn't bother me if it was off road for a while.
I quite fancy the challenge and guy who's sorting my k series just now would be keen to help.

I am only testing the water as I seen a k20 engine and bits for sale the other day.

Sinclaires is around 6.5k + vat for install if you supply engine.

Some money might be heading my way shortly and can't see me ever getting rid of the s1 especially since all the sh*t I've been through this year and I still managed to keep it.

The honda attracts me for the reliability side of it.

GregR · Post by **GregR** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 8:24 am

Stu160 wrote:
GregR wrote:Peeps seem to love the 'onda for its bullet-proof 'fit & forget' reputation.

I'm sure there are people out there that have gone down the high end K-series route that have spent honda money and look back on what might have been. I doubt that you could say the same about those that go Linda (Ed's problems don't count)
Eh,not quite.

The Honda engines are good,yes,but fit and forget,not quite.As Robin said,if you want 200+ horses you will have some sort of issues either way.
There is always a price to pay.
(just with a K,its less)
((But with a K,there is,sometimes ,less power.)

Stu

operative word there Stu was 'reputation'

jamie · Post by **jamie** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 8:39 am

As far as drive shafts on the Honda - the class C boys seem to have found some reliability (Link-Up kit) by using that special grease (HPCC-1 from Neo) - costing £70 for a tube

still cheaper than new driveshafts

DIY does not seem to add up to a massive saving - I would (and have) taken the warranty and run.

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 9:01 am

Audi...

/spanner in the works/

Stu160 · Post by **Stu160** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 9:07 am

RICHARDHUMBLE wrote:Audi...

/spanner in the works/

Had a look at Bobs car this year,look the part

Stu

YvoTuk · Post by **YvoTuk** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 9:20 am

I don't think the Neo grease will be the solution here.

From what I can see, the exhaust manifold is radiating heat to the intermediate shaft (it does that pretty quick). The intermediate shaft is a conductor and will transfer the heat into the bearing / CV joint cup. The cup will expand, but as the opposite part of the CV joint is only touching the cup with the contact patches of the three bearings, the bearings will not expand as fast as the cup.

So.. cup expands, gets bigger, bearings stay the same: more play, bearings will start to eat in the cup and will be hammered everytime when you release throttle / apply throttle.

I think the key issue of the RH inboard CV is heat transfer, not angle.

MacK · Post by **MacK** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 10:01 am

RICHARDHUMBLE wrote:Audi...

/spanner in the works/

Ford Duratec .....

/another spanner in the works/

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 10:02 am

No room for a proper heat shield? bit of ducting?

Dominic · Post by **Dominic** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 10:09 am

MacK wrote:
RICHARDHUMBLE wrote:Audi...

/spanner in the works/
Ford Duratec .....

/another spanner in the works/

I have a 2.5l straight six BMW engine sitting in my garage

Another spanner in the works... or should I say, full tool box in the works

YvoTuk · Post by **YvoTuk** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 10:20 am

RICHARDHUMBLE wrote:No room for a proper heat shield? bit of ducting?

There's this original Honda heatshield which I've just ordered (it was thrown away when the engine was installed... you don't need that piece of worthless metal was the comment)

Besides, I will indeed see if I can get some air routed in an intelligent way

GregR · Post by **GregR** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 10:46 am

I recall shooting the breeze with Ed about the cooling issue and wondered whether there could be more venturi ducts cut into the undertray to cool that specifiv CV joint - otherwise, would it be possible to utilise the redundant sidepod (unless the s/c is hooked up to it) to get some air directed onto the joint?

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 11:46 am

A NACA duct might be the way forward, but you'll need a metal one a placcy one might melt!

Dom: Straight 6 might need some bodywork to fit...

Any chance you could measure it for me? I have a 924 with a van engine that needs a boost....