Tightening handbrake

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simon
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Tightening handbrake

Post by simon » Fri Apr 21, 2006 12:59 pm

Anyone know how easy a job it is to tighten up the handbrake? Thought it would've been done at the service but wasn't and it really could do with it.

Cheers.
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mac
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Post by mac » Fri Apr 21, 2006 1:02 pm

I'm not sure - let me have a look at the service manual (yes I actually bought and paid for a service manual) and I'll get back to you on it.

Cheers


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robin
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Re: Tightening handbrake

Post by robin » Fri Apr 21, 2006 3:55 pm

simon wrote:Anyone know how easy a job it is to tighten up the handbrake? Thought it would've been done at the service but wasn't and it really could do with it.

Cheers.
Undertray off, then two spanners to undo the lock nuts and adjust. So 5 hours or so :-)

Robin
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Post by simon » Fri Apr 21, 2006 11:02 pm

:lol:
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Scottd
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Re: Tightening handbrake

Post by Scottd » Sat Apr 22, 2006 12:46 am

robin wrote:
simon wrote:Anyone know how easy a job it is to tighten up the handbrake? Thought it would've been done at the service but wasn't and it really could do with it.

Cheers.
Undertray off, then two spanners to undo the lock nuts and adjust. So 5 hours or so :-)

Robin
Brilliant! :lol: Was just thinkin about all the little jobs I want to get done this week-end then reality hit an to be honest if I get one done in less than 6 hours I'll be over the moon!

Lawrence, can't you do a Spanners and Sponges every week-end?? :popcorn

scott
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Post by simon » Mon Apr 24, 2006 1:04 pm

Had a look at the service manual and it looks like you need to measure the distance between the caliper and something else (forgotten right now). Then you can just tighten the cable using the lock nuts on the left side of the car and ensure that the measure distance doesn't go below whatever distance it said the the manual. Clear enough? :P

In summary: it looks like a piece of piss but will probably be like Robin said :lol:
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Baggy
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Post by Baggy » Mon Apr 24, 2006 9:47 pm

Slacken cables right off. Take car out for a drive to let self adjusters do their thing. Then adjust cables.
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Post by simon » Mon Apr 24, 2006 10:41 pm

Started to do it tonight, couldn't get one of the little undertray bolts off. Got pi$$ed off, decided I don't really need a handbrake and gave up and fitted Stu's towing eye's instead (if you read this, I'm due you for them Stu).

So pretty much as Robin said :lol:
Think I'll wait for the next S&S :)
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Scottd
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Post by Scottd » Tue Apr 25, 2006 12:16 am

Would that be the under tray bolt caused the rattling after you got it back from Murrays that they then maybe used Loctite on :shock: They woudn't be that silly tho would they :? :wink:


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robin
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Post by robin » Tue Apr 25, 2006 8:26 am

Scottd wrote:Would that be the under tray bolt caused the rattling after you got it back from Murrays that they then maybe used Loctite on :shock: They woudn't be that silly tho would they :? :wink:


scott
Nah. Loctite is designed to be undone with normal tools. In fact I do the opposite for these bolts and fit them with copper grease each time I put the tray back on. The bolts seize in the C-clips really easily and then when you apply sufficient torque, the C-clip sheers leaving you no choice but to use WMD. Don't be scared, just grind the head off the bolt (assuming we're talking the wee M5 (8mm head) bolts, not the 4xM8s (13mm head or on later cars these are 5mm hex drive heads IIRC). You shouldn't have trouble with the M8s - just use a big spanner/socket drive if you have too - the M8 bolt is tough enough.

If you have rounded off the middle of the hex-drive with a badly fitting key then can flatten off two sides with a file (make them parallel) until you can get a spanner on it. Failing that you're looking at drilling and removing with an Easy-Out type of thing (left handed corkscrew).

Cheers,
Robin
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