Buying an S1 elise

[thinfourth]

Its also a simple car so if you are able to DIY then it should not be expensive

[tut]

Scott

If it is a sound car, then providing that you are not putting it into a main dealer for servicing and repair, you can keep the costs well down, especially if you do not start upgrading it too soon.

There are many of us on here with enough experience to almost assess it in a few minutes, a well looked after car stands out against a neglected one, and not just from shiny paintwork.

I believe the friend that I met you with on Sunday is a mechanic, so he should know what he is looking for if he is going with you. Ideally someone like Robin, Ali or FD could check it out, but not practable unless it was local.

I cannot actually think of anyone who has bought a lemon, so the odds are well on your side.

tut

[s29ttc]

Yes thats right my best friend is a mechanic. He says the K series is relatively easy to work out and parts don't seem to be that expensive. I wouldnt look at tuning it as this will be fast enough for me as moving from a 1.4 diesel lump into this will be like driving a veyron compared to mine. I hope my research and my friends mechanical background should give me a good chance at picking one that will not provide too many problems I got my fingers crossed

[Shug]

More to an elise than the engine - but your point is pretty valid. Just let him know there is no play anywhere in the suspension, unlike some cars which can have a little 'plush' in them. If it moves at all, it needs work.

[s29ttc]

Yeah thanks Shug, Just jack it up and have a pull about

[Andy G]

make sure you know how to jack it also

Putting a jack through an Elise sill has been done before

[s29ttc]

I have been looking at jacking points on the elise through my research

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A; Identified by a blue sticker. Beneath crossmember ahead of fuel tank bay. To be used one side at a time for wheel changing - lifts both wheels on one side. Do not use with a four point garage lift.

B; Beneath the front end of the right or left hand main chassis rail, behind the front wheelarch. Garage use with 4-point lift in conjunction with (C).

C; The engine undertray/diffuser panel must first be removed. Beneath the outboard end of the chassis crossmember ahead of the rear wheelarches. Take care to position the jack between the fixing screws for the fuel tank bay perforated undershield. Garage use with 4-point lift in conjuction with (B).

D; The engine undertray/diffuser panel must first be removed. Beneath the rear subframe, close to the lower wishbone rearmost mountings.

Jacking at any other point may damage the chassis or body structure and/or jeopardise safety.

There is another way which is commonly used by some Lotus dealers... If there is a flat surfaced lift available and if this lift fits in between the wheelbase, you can place rubber blocks at points A and B. The place another rubber block just in front of the rear wheels. (near point C) This will provide the car with enough stability and will prevent the car from falling backwards...
If you're not sure, follow the official Lotus instruction!!



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[Andy G]

good man

[tut]

Bloody hell, never knew that there were that many jacking points.

Only ever used two.

tut

ps Strikes me Scott that you really have been doing your homework.

[Shug]

Bloody hell, never knew that there were that many jacking points.

Only ever used two.

tut

ps Strikes me Scott that you really have been doing your homework.

You can only really use two with the wheels and undertrays on.

[s29ttc]

I have put all things I have wrote up on this link

http://www.4shared.com/dir/7547241/f1cf ... lises.html

Not sure how good it is but there are a few files there that may be handy for folk in future and I will update with anything people want.

[Rich H]

I have been know to use the chassis rails up above and out from point C taking care to miss the rear brake lines.
Means you can support the back of the car on axle stands (Using wood blocks where they meet the chassis) with the trays on
Don't forget to chock the front wheels though!

You might also find the blue stickers have goe walkies, mine have, just aim for the point where the rail meets the cross rail and use a block of wood or rubber on top of the jack, a PO of mine didn't...

[BiggestNizzy]

a PO of mine didn't...

Ditto

[Neil72]

I share your pain Brother as I agonised over all of this myself not so long ago.

You've been given a lot of sound advice already, only couple of things I would add :

(1) If you've got a few grand cash to whack down, a newer S2 from a dealer might work out cheaper month to month funded on a PCP compared to what you will be paying on a bank loan. The car will also be inspected and come with a warranty which will absorb any potential repair bills in the first year.

(2) Best time of the year to buy is autumn/early winter as prices tail off and there is still a decent selection of cars available. But it doesn't sound like you'll be hanging around until then

(3) Your number one enemy is likely to be badly repaired accident damage so be very vigilant for this. As has been pointed out already, anything else should be relatively inexpensive to repair/replace.

(4) As with any car purchase, try not to become too seduced and buy the first car that you go to look at, and if you have the slightest bit of doubt then walk away from it.

Good luck with your search

[Victor Meldrew]

make sure you know how to jack it also

Putting a jack through an Elise sill has been done before

By me on Friday night.....