Thanks, folks

I'll maybe get a wee write-up and some pics sorted later this week - thought only the last 4 days of our hol were a road trip so maybe just some more pics. Meantime, a few words about the Stelvio morning:
Having been over Stelvio a few times before in the Tomato (congested weekend afternoon & deserted early evening drives), I was excitedly considering this pre-sunrise foray all holiday. We stayed in Gamagoi the night before (not too far below Tornante 48), and I set my alarm for 0530

...
...it was surreal being alone on the pass in the still, dawn air. The summit is a surreal place without the crowds, like a ghost town - the wurst stands all packed away under tarpaulins, the tacky souvenir shops' shutters down, the road and car parks empty.... just a handful of skin-suited ski-racers sleepily walking across to the cable car for another day's training. Plenty of photo stops - you can abandon the car anywhere you choose when you have the road to yourself

- and return to the gasthof for früstück, before heading on our way, back over Stelvio. By then, of course, back to being the heaving metropolis it usually is.