Paul
Before you order from Geary, have a look at Yvo's at http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?mai ... ucts_id=56
It looks more substantial.
What do you reckon Robin?
tut
Cracked toe-link mounting.
Re: Cracked toe-link mounting.
Thanks Tut, I've already ordered them from Eliseparts...Doh!!
Oh well, least I'll have some running spares if I stick to the same kit.
Oh well, least I'll have some running spares if I stick to the same kit.
Re: Cracked toe-link mounting.
roadboy wrote:One thing to point out is that they have been fitted wrong in the first place. The bolts shlould go up from the plinth with the nut on the top of the upright, not the other way round as fitted here. They are running far too close to the wheels.
Dan
what he said, bolts are upside down.
not sure if I end up with some spare used ones in a few weeks time,
Geary's solid bars are not strong enough for my "playing around"
I have a pair of Yvo's new toe links on order to replace them.
http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?mai ... ucts_id=56
Re: Cracked toe-link mounting.
Bob, how did your subframe fare the incident? Is it still straight, damaged, or damaged around the toe-link/wishbone mount area? Surely Geary's (relatively) weaker bars will have helped protect that area from damage by failing first?Bob vanM wrote:roadboy wrote:One thing to point out is that they have been fitted wrong in the first place. The bolts shlould go up from the plinth with the nut on the top of the upright, not the other way round as fitted here. They are running far too close to the wheels.
Dan
what he said, bolts are upside down.
not sure if I end up with some spare used ones in a few weeks time,
Geary's solid bars are not strong enough for my "playing around"
I have a pair of Yvo's new toe links on order to replace them.
http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?mai ... ucts_id=56
Re: Cracked toe-link mounting.
Spoke with Eliseparts, the actual link rods are on back order at the moment and are different now...powercoated black...although not sure if that is the only change.
They are sending out the rose joints and plinths as a part order, so hopefully I should be able to at least get the car back on the road.
Bob, interesting photo...odd to see the differing failure between your snapped rod, and my broken plinth. thanks.
Will certainly be checking the integrity of the existing rods, as well as my upright when I take them off.
They are sending out the rose joints and plinths as a part order, so hopefully I should be able to at least get the car back on the road.
Bob, interesting photo...odd to see the differing failure between your snapped rod, and my broken plinth. thanks.
Will certainly be checking the integrity of the existing rods, as well as my upright when I take them off.
Re: Cracked toe-link mounting.
Woody,woody wrote:Bob, how did your subframe fare the incident? Is it still straight, damaged, or damaged around the toe-link/wishbone mount area? Surely Geary's (relatively) weaker bars will have helped protect that area from damage by failing first?Bob vanM wrote:roadboy wrote:One thing to point out is that they have been fitted wrong in the first place. The bolts shlould go up from the plinth with the nut on the top of the upright, not the other way round as fitted here. They are running far too close to the wheels.
Dan
what he said, bolts are upside down.
not sure if I end up with some spare used ones in a few weeks time,
Geary's solid bars are not strong enough for my "playing around"
I have a pair of Yvo's new toe links on order to replace them.
http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?mai ... ucts_id=56
Looking at this photo...
It looks like they've got a section taken out of the middle as though it is designed to fail at this point and prevent damage being transfered to the subframe?
Re: Cracked toe-link mounting.
The section in the middle are flats to hold the bar with a spanner so you can tighten the rose-joints at 90 degrees to one another.
Re: Cracked toe-link mounting.
ahh,k.woody wrote:The section in the middle are flats to hold the bar with a spanner so you can tighten the rose-joints at 90 degrees to one another.
Re: Cracked toe-link mounting.
I've seen more then a few being cracked.
Although I can understand the crowbar theory, one thing is rather important to check.
The bump steer is controlled by adding or removing some washers on these kits. (actually, you should move them the upper side of the rod end to the lower side of the rod end). However, there should be a floating spacer in the bottom part of the bracket. This spacer needs to prevent any pressure built up from the tightening the bolt.
If the spacer is too tight (the last ones I've seen were actually pressed in and were not floating at all) you will be trying to bend the ali bracket which also result in breakage.
This spacer has been changed in our kit. We've made it a two part solution, the upper part is large diameter and connects into the rod end below and rests on the bracket on top. This big diameter helps to prevent any movement and bumpsteer is controlled on this end.
The other end is a more solid spacer which connects into the rod end on the top end and can be moved up and down through the bracket at the other end. Hard to describe, but it is more stable and prevents this pre-tension from floating spacers that don't float...
The Elise toe links were originally designed as a 'fuseable chassis component' i.e. in a shunt, they should snap and the whishbones should fold to prevent any chassis damage.
In practice, this fuseable option has proven to be a bit difficult. People curb their cars on track and drive through potholes, which results in repetitive impacts on the rod ends and eventually, rod ends will snap.
Problem is that this happens in the thread of the rod end, which is hard to detect in an early stage.
Lotus has never ever made any attempt to make toe links part of a service schedule. I would seriously suggest to replace all four rod ends of the original kit at any C-service as dealers or specialist don't have access to x-ray machines to see if there's any hair fractures in the rod ends.
Although I can understand the crowbar theory, one thing is rather important to check.
The bump steer is controlled by adding or removing some washers on these kits. (actually, you should move them the upper side of the rod end to the lower side of the rod end). However, there should be a floating spacer in the bottom part of the bracket. This spacer needs to prevent any pressure built up from the tightening the bolt.
If the spacer is too tight (the last ones I've seen were actually pressed in and were not floating at all) you will be trying to bend the ali bracket which also result in breakage.
This spacer has been changed in our kit. We've made it a two part solution, the upper part is large diameter and connects into the rod end below and rests on the bracket on top. This big diameter helps to prevent any movement and bumpsteer is controlled on this end.
The other end is a more solid spacer which connects into the rod end on the top end and can be moved up and down through the bracket at the other end. Hard to describe, but it is more stable and prevents this pre-tension from floating spacers that don't float...
The Elise toe links were originally designed as a 'fuseable chassis component' i.e. in a shunt, they should snap and the whishbones should fold to prevent any chassis damage.
In practice, this fuseable option has proven to be a bit difficult. People curb their cars on track and drive through potholes, which results in repetitive impacts on the rod ends and eventually, rod ends will snap.
Problem is that this happens in the thread of the rod end, which is hard to detect in an early stage.
Lotus has never ever made any attempt to make toe links part of a service schedule. I would seriously suggest to replace all four rod ends of the original kit at any C-service as dealers or specialist don't have access to x-ray machines to see if there's any hair fractures in the rod ends.
Re: Cracked toe-link mounting.
FYI. The bolt is upside down, hence why it is so close to the wheel inner. Up ended you have much greater clearance.
ta
andy
ta
andy
Elise S1, DIY Honda K20A2(N/A)/DTA Install,
Currently undergoing conversion to target 450bhp
Merc E55 AMG - (exocet missile in a suit)
Nissan Navara. - (Snow plow)
gsxr thou K6.
Currently undergoing conversion to target 450bhp
Merc E55 AMG - (exocet missile in a suit)
Nissan Navara. - (Snow plow)
gsxr thou K6.
Re: Cracked toe-link mounting.
Is there an echo? 
Dan
Dan
Re: Cracked toe-link mounting.
I love folk that don't read before replying, don't you?
2010 Honda VFR1200F
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
Re: Cracked toe-link mounting.
If Elises could carry STD's they would probably look like this....
Re: Cracked toe-link mounting.
I think the technical description for that is fubar.
Nasty mate.
Nasty mate.2010 Honda VFR1200F
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
Re: Cracked toe-link mounting.
lubed it up, and it is moving freely now, and quite smooth, so it will just have to do until I get the new rods.
Think I'll just get both rose joints perpendicular to each other, and throw on the new plinth for now, saves getting the tracking done twice.
The spacer washers should go inside the bracket, surely? they were on the outside...where I can't see how they would have any function at all???
Doesn't seem much space in there...
Think I'll just get both rose joints perpendicular to each other, and throw on the new plinth for now, saves getting the tracking done twice.
The spacer washers should go inside the bracket, surely? they were on the outside...where I can't see how they would have any function at all???
Doesn't seem much space in there...