Post
by robin » Tue Sep 30, 2008 10:24 pm
You'll need a suitable torx socket to remove the three bolts that hold the bearing unit to the upright and a 34 or 36mm socket to undo the driveshaft nut (think it's 34 but not 100% sure off the top of my head).
You'll need an impact driver or drill to remove the grub screw that holds the brake disk to the hub flange, unless you've already replaced rear disks in the past and have already drilled out and discarded the grub screw.
You'll need a new drive shaft nut, a new split pin and a torque wrench capable of reaching 220Nm (which is the drive shaft bolt tightening torque) - don't get this wrong or you might be overtaken by your wheel, especially if it's on the pax side. If you have two torque wrenches do it up with both (i.e. to whichever one gets more torque for that setting - it's at the upper range of the average 1/2" drive torque wrench).
You should also use a 3/8" drive torque wrench to tighten the torx head bolts back to 90Nm when fitting new bearing unit. 90Nm is quite a lot and access is a bit limited, hence using the torque wrench rather than the usual "that ought to be tight enough" approach. You do not want these bolts coming out. I would refit using a thread locking compound for good measure in case you under-torque them.
Some time spent making sure your tools fit well is going to save you a heap of grief should you round off any bolt heads.
Procedure is:
Jack up securely, wheel off, handbrake on, in gear for good measure, remove split pin and undo 34 (or maybe 36) drive shaft bolt. If you struggle to keep wheel from turning, pop out center cap from wheel, refit wheel and then lower off jack; with the car chocked, handbrake on, in gear, you should be able to undo the nut.
With the car jacked, wheel off, drive shut nut loose, remove the brake caliper (one cap head bolt and one 17mm normal head bolt) and stash it on the wishbone somewhere to keep it safe.
Remove the brake disk (may require WMD to remove the old grub screw).
Unbolt the three torx head bolts that hold the bearing unit to the upright.
Chuck old bearing away (don't forget to unplug/replug the speedo sensor if doing pax side).
Fit new bearing, thread lock and tighten the three bolts back to 90Nm.
Refit disk (and grub screw if not mullered) and caliper.
Fit new driveshaft nut & tighten to 220Nm, then insert new split pin.
Wheel on.
Job done.
Cheers,
Robin
I is in your loomz nibblin ur wirez
#bemoretut
Remember if it's the rear pax side you will need one with a speed sensor