Winter Strip Down and Rebuild (Done and Dusted)

[Mikie711]

Anybody know what type/size the fitting on the top side of the fuel filter is?

[hiscot]

Anybody know what type/size the fitting on the top side of the fuel filter is?

Mike ,if you are after a T piece between the fuel filter and pipe its M14 X1.5 (m) / (f) with a 1/8npt (f) take off to suit my fuel pressure sensor
i used a Europa LMA053
my early sump plug thread was also 14M X1.5 Europa LMA065 gave me a oil temp (1/8 npt ) take off sump plug ( i rethreaded a m12 sensor i had to 1/8th npt )
( whilst your sumps off i would be tempted to tap that instead )
Europa LMA056 gave me a T piece 1/8 npt (m/f) to 1/8npt (f) take off for oil pressure i believe later engines used metric not npt thread on the filter housing so you would have to check this thread first

ps mg mag has an page about later blocks being 3 mm thicker to stiffen the block but it also recommends to cut a vee across the casting to aid coolent flow exhaust side
maybe worth looking at whilst your linners are out ( i only glanced at the mag in smiths )

[Mikie711]

OK, home again, happy new year to all of you and I hope Santa brought you what you wanted.
While I was away head came back from Rog and looks brilliant in the flesh, guy does some job. Head looks like new and the machining is beautiful.
Spent this morning ordering some of the bits and bobs I am missing, Fuel hose, fittings and pressure regulator, Eibach springs, rear caliper overhaul kits and oil from Millers. Englandshire is business as usual, no 2nd of Jan holiday for them.
Anyway, started the dry build and ran in to a few problems right from the off. 1st one was the plastigauge I've got is to thin so had to order the 30 - 70 thou stuff which should be here start of the week. 2nd the conrod caps fouled the oil rail on the cross webs at BDC so the oil rail needed some fettling with a dremmel to get enough clearance.



Block with bearings in place, using mineral oil (GTX) just for some lub during the dry build. Will be using Miller assembly oil and molykote for the proper build.




Drop in the crank..............



...... and bearing carrier, torque up in stages. Oil rail is on but will need to take it off when fitting rods and pistons.



Speaking of which, have only put in the top and scrapper ring, no need for the oil control ring yet.



Insert the liners, thin coat of oil so they are easy to remove later as the whole lot will need cleaning properly.



Rods and pistons in and bearing caps on, after refitting the oil rail this is when I discovered the clearance issue. Now resolved.



Sacrificial gasket on and pistons ready for the plastigauge...............

Next job is to fit the head and see what the valve to piston clearance is like. Will have to wait till the plastigauge arrives next week. Until then got some more wiring to do and finish off fitting the oil cooler and oil thermostat. Overhaul the rear calipers and replace the fronts with shinny new ones, picked up a pair for not much more than a pair of overhaul kits.

To be continued...................

P.S. Bob, thanks for the info, now going to try and retain the original quick connects in the fuel line. Will see how that pans out.

[meatball]

Good skills......and good write up!

[Mikie711]

Cheers Meatball, glad somebody is still reading my inane drivel. Sat down this afternoon and came up with a todo list as every time I go into the garage it looks like I have made no progress ad it's all getting a bit overwhelming. So in no particular order.........

Finish wheel sensor mount and wiring.
Locate oil cooler thermostat.
Install oil cooler cowl.
Cut hole in front under tray for above.
Install shift lights.
Install switch gear for TC/LC data logger control.
Locate and wire in logger.
Fit and wire in oil pressure and temp gauges.
Fit PRRT.
Rebuild rear calipers.
Fit new front calipers.
Bleed and flush brakes.
Overhaul pedal box, replace clutch trunnion.
Fit rack riser plates.
Fit new springs for shockers
Geo car.
Suspension bolt refresh.
Finish dry build of engine.
Balance above.
Build engine.
Install engine.
Figure out fuel system (praying my fuel pump is up to the job).
Run in and map.

It looks like a monster list but most are piddly little jobs that seem to grow arms and legs. If anybody is particularly interested in any of the above then let me know and I will try to cover it in more detail otherwise most will just be quick summaries.

Back to work I suppose.

[tut]

I read it all Mike, but then I know that you are an obsessive nutter..............

Excellent photos though and the whole engine looks a work of art. Looking forward to see if you can get around the 230 mark which will be some achievement, and just hope that after all the work that you have put into it the K engine does not rear its ugly head.

tut

[mac]

I'm enjoying it too and do hope to see the fruits of your labours next season.


Mac

[meatball]

Is it for sprinting/hills or just fun?
Gimmie a shout if you are going to KH with it please!

[Mikie711]

I read it all Mike, but then I know that you are an obsessive nutter..............

tut

Don't know about obsessive nutter maybe just barking mad. Meatball the plan with the car is to carry on using it for trackdays, runs and sprint/hillclimb. Beauty of the emerald is that I can have it mapped to what ever I can get out of it then copy that map and tweek it back a bit to give some sort of longevity to the engine but still switch back to balls out mode as needed. Anything north of 200bhp will be fine, 210 would be brilliant, 220 amazing, 230 a miracle and 240 would probably end in tears.
But the main thing I am interested in is torque, pointless having huge figures if you have to rev the nuts out of it. From what I have read nothing kills a K quicker than constant abuse above 8-8.5k revs. Tis the whole point of using these cams, they are supposed to give a much better torque spread than the others, time will tell if thats true or not.

[meatball]

Cool...I look forward to seeing it at KH.......and trying (and I'll prob fail) to keep up!

[kenny]

Anything north of 200bhp will be fine, 210 would be brilliant, 220 amazing, 230 a miracle and 240 would probably end in tears.
But the main thing I am interested in is torque.

What torque figure you aiming/hoping for? Curious to see how it compares to the Honda K20 if your engine makes 200bhp+

[Mikie711]

Most of the plots I've seen don't get much above 160 ft/lbs for 200bhp+ but the majority have been with 1224 cams so we will have to see if these are any better.

[kenny]

Better than the K20 then, good effort

[mckeann]

the engine figures themselves arent the deciding factor, as the gearbox plays a huge part. The really fast K series cars in LOT also had 6 speed quaife's and that realy helped them. But i'm sure it'l still be awesome

[philthy]

even if you forget the performance the lumpy idle is

K is for character