Okay doke - partial success. Stopped in my tracks by not having enough WMDs to continue. Will explain at the end.
So, here's the gearbox No 2 - much cleaner!
Also got this from the guy who sent the first gearbox - the correct 4.2 final drive:
Crownwheel and pinion - pinion is cast on the layshaft, as you can see.
So, getting this box apart was a bit more difficult as it was all sealed up properly (the other one had been apart then chucked back together) Has some advantages as well like steel caged bearings on the diff...
This is the other one, for comparison - spot the differences...
The eagle eyed will notice a major difference - this bit:
A Torsen diff. Uses a clever system of planetary gears to transfer torque from a spinning wheel to one with grip. Much less abrupt than a normal LSD - doesn't lock up as such. Everyone will give you an opinion on an LSD in an Elise and certainly I don't think there's much point unless you're going over 200bhp in terms of pace. The folks I have spoken to claim it changes the car for the better though - making the rear more throttle steerable and predictable. It didn't really cost me anything (this still came in under what you'll find most CR boxes for) so I figured I might as well find out for myself. If it doesn't work out, I have a selection of open diffs that can swap it out!
So, just to remind you - this box is a B6BST (B - CR gearset, 6 - 3.9:1 final drive, BST - torsen diff) and I want to change the final drive to 4.2:1 so it'll be a B4BST (B4BP is the Lotus CR box, with open diff) So, I need to change the layshaft with the FD pinion (shown above) along with the crownwheel on the diff - its the same amount of teeth (63) as the 3.9 final drive, but as the pinion has one less tooth, it's a different pitch.
So, to the layshaft:
Removed as per the other box in post 1 and shown standing up with the original layshaft still installed and the 4.2 one lying next to it. When the nut is taken off the top of the shaft (put both shafts back in the box without the selector forks, engage 1st and 3rd to lock the shafts, then it'll turn - left hand thread) The gears, synchros and shims all come off easily. They then just slide onto the 4.2 layshaft - just need to make sure that every washer and shim is on there - I'm going to take a chance that it'll shim up something the same, certainly most folk I've spoken to have never bothered with re-shimming them, it's really just for noise.
At this stage, I reached in impasse. The crownwheel is held on the diff by 10 (I think) bolts that are done up at 80 lbs/ft - or effing tight. Without a decent vice, I have no chance of getting these free, so dear old dad is taking them to a mate's commercial garage during the week, he'll buzz them off with air tools in 2 minutes.
So, next weekend, I should be able to put it all back together again and then it's a case of get my spare flywheel to Stu for lightening, buy a new clutch (might as well, the existing one is 92000 miles old) and then sort out a weekend to get the car to Domsport for a spanner sesh to take out one gearbox and replace it with this.