Help, locking wheel nut siezed

[Peter]

Was putting my new pads in today and got to the NSF wheel; all the normal bolts were extremely 'rumped' but I managed to get the loosened. Got to the locking one and there is no way i can get it to budge, I'm now worried that I may have damaged the bolt head as I can't get it to grip whilst applying force.

The tool seems ok as it managed the other front and both rears, it seems to be the bolt head

Any one got any ideas? looks like my Knockhill fun tomorrow will be short as I only have a few mm left on the fronts.

Thanks, Peter (Desperate faction)

[meatball]

Soak it in WD40 and leave it for a wee while......
Be gentle with it, it is a PITA if you round it. Once it is off, get rid of it and just put normal bolts on (in fact, replace them all).

Good luck

[Gourlay83]

Hi Peter, Quite common if they have been over tightened (tyre fitters with big air guns).

Find a socket (12 pointed are better) that is slightly too small to fit over the wheel stud. Hammer the socket over the stud then you can use a crack bar to loosen it.

Works every time for me but just make sure its gripping the stud well before you try and loosen it and use an extension on the socket to keep the hammer away from you wheels.

Best of Luck
Alan

[Modena Scotland]

I also have a problem of not being able to take a wheel off. My case is different from yours in that the locking socket broke as the bolt is in too tight.

Have a word with Craig from MMC tomorrow.

[meatball]

Try mine 1st!

[Peter]

My problem is a per Mass. Its the locking socket (or more likey the bolt head).

Will get some WD40 on it just now but i'm now limited to how much force I can put on it before it slips..


Thanks for the advice!

[Modena Scotland]

Pete

If it's the locking socket, Craig has a solution which I will try early next week.

Bring the pads and tools with you just in case though.

See you tomorrow.

[meatball]

Ah, it is worth a try, I'd be tempted to give Craig/Dan (as per my post in trackdays) a shout and see what they can do for you tomorrow.
It is usually the actualy locking key that rounds, plenty available to try tomorrow!
I'd also ask for new bolts to be brought up!

[Peter]

Thanks, should I go ahead and change the other front?

[Gourlay83]

My way may sound extreme but works every time and only takes 2 mins.

I was a Mechanic for 7 years and always had problems with Locking Wheels nuts. If they are overtightened the tabs on the key will tare through the head of the wheel bolt.

[Peter]

Hi Alan, the problem is that these are the fully recessed ones with an internal pattern for the locking tool. There is no way to get something over the outside and it's round (Like an Allen Bolt) if that makes sense.

The normal bolts use a spline (much better idea!)

[meatball]

Thanks, should I go ahead and change the other front?

I'd do it all at one time....but that is just me.

[Gourlay83]

Hi Alan, the problem is that these are the fully recessed ones with an internal pattern for the locking tool. There is no way to get something over the outside and it's round (Like an Allen Bolt) if that makes sense.

The normal bolts use a spline (much better idea!)

See what you mean, I have a set of slim sockets i use for it (keep them specific for doing that).

Like whats been said above im sure someone will be able to help you out tommorow.

Best of Luck

Alan

[Modena Scotland]

Thanks, should I go ahead and change the other front?

I'd do it all at one time....but that is just me.

+1

It's a real PITA. In my case, the bolt broke 3 locking sockets (one of mine + two of MMC's master) Craig's solution involves welding similar locking socket from another brand so it's not a quick solution but could be the only way forward.

How many mm of pads have you got left? What pads are you using?

[Peter]

Hi Mass, I'm on the originals that came with the car, about 3mm left (7500 miles). New Pagids are standing by..patiently