Another non-starter...

[Ferg]

Well after getting my new downpipe on this weekend, which was a bit of an experience itself, and getting it off the axle stands... she wouldn't start.

It had been sitting for 3 weeks and the battery was dead so I charged it overnight. The battery seems fine, once charged it's been able to turn the engine over plenty.

I've checked all the fuses (including the Maxi job). Fuel pump primes and if it turns over for a bit you can smell the fuel. We then towed it to see if it would jump. It almost ran but was very rough. Theres spark coming from the main HT lead but on reviewing the Techwiki, two of the HT leads resemble the bust ones with brown deposits. There wasn't any water in the holes so I just ordered a new HT set and a cap and rotor arm for good measure from EP.

Hoping that fixes the problem. Will be running out of ideas fast after that.

Nothing goes to plan sometimes eh...

[robin]

If you have a compression tester I suggest you use that to compare compression across all four bores. One possible (and unlikely, I hope) scenario is a bent or stuck valve or slipped belt (or both - one can follow the other).

Cheers,
Robin

[Ferg]

It was running (apart from the really bad blowing) before being parked up to wait for the exhaust down pipe, so I'm confident (mostly ) that the compression is fine.

I do have one somewhere, so if the dizzy doesn't fix it then I'll dig it out and do a check, but hope it doesn't come to that.

Fingers crossed it's the electrics....

[BiggestNizzy]

Sounds like mine I changed the cap and rotor (after changing plugs and leads) and it purred like a kitten.

The cap was full of water and crud.

[Ferg]

I'm hoping so...now getting stressed that something more sinister is present. I'll find out tomorrow night after the parts arrive from EliseParts (who were very helpfull).

[john-160]

i was having slight problems starting after washing, yesterday after washing it just would'nt start so out with wd40 still no joy,so off with distributer cap bad corrosion between connector ht to rotor arm order new bits from dingbro fitted started first time. I will say however it is the worst corrosion I have seen, the connector was worn down to spring in a engine thats done 31000 miles

[Shug]

i was having slight problems starting after washing, yesterday after washing it just would'nt start so out with wd40 still no joy,so off with distributer cap bad corrosion between connector ht to rotor arm order new bits from dingbro fitted started first time. I will say however it is the worst corrosion I have seen, the connector was worn down to spring in a engine thats done 31000 miles

Does get rained on, unlike most engines though - the cause of many a woe in the Elise engine bay.

[Ferg]

Well, good news and bad news.

The Good:
The car spring into life at the first turn of the key which was good to hear, and the old ignition parts coming off were pretty worn out.


The Bad:
The blow is still there, and I now think it's the manifold . So the question is. Do I just start by changing the gasket or for the sake of absolute certainty, get hold of a manifold and replace it. I can always flog it on if it's fine. This would mean one remove/replace of the manifold rather than two.. It's tight in there and I'm having trouble identifying where the leak is coming from...any ideas?

The blow started after a long spirited run followed by a -20 night in the garden. Fine when turned off but blowing in the morning. I didn't think that sort of temp change would effect the gasket, so I'm tilting towards manifold. right/wrong?

All ideas opinions welcome..

[s29ttc]

Ferg, I might have a spare manifold gasket lying about somewhere, you sure the gasket was put on the right way. I believe there is only one way round it should go and you can put it on backwards - well I remember someone telling me this. I done my gaskets not long ago and it was a PITA trying to get in and about. I found your best to loosen up the downpipe and then you can get into the manifold and take it out and its not too bad. Both times I have removed the manifold it has been up on ramps and I had access underneath and two of us. . Can you not get in and about to hear where it is blowing from?

[robin]

It depends on how much time you have to waste

I cracked the weld on at least two S1 manifolds on the engine side of the downpipe flange, so I would think it's pretty likely that's what you've done. Of course it _could_ be the gasket too.

Unfortunately the lambda sensor lives in the manifold, so if you replace the manifold you'll need to transplant the lambda sensor which might actually result in replacing the sensor when you cannot get it out of the threads

Cheers,
Robin

[Ferg]

I haven't removed the manifold yet, the downpipe flexi was in such a mess I made the mistake of assuming it was just that, and only replaced it alone.

Robin, thats exactly what I think the problem is. All the symptoms fit that too. The extra heat is much more general rather than round the flange against the head.

As I don't want to waste too much time... ..gasket is already ordered and on it's way...just need to source a manifold. Theres one on SELEC, but the advert is quite old.

Are standard manifolds readily available? I missed one on Ebay just yesterday before I was commited to getting one. Doh!

[Corranga]

I have a standard manifold that you are welcome to if you can arrange collection in Dundee. It does need some new studs though. Other than that it's solid enough.

The studs had rusted / cross threaded and weren't holding the down pipe on properly. I thought the manifold was rhubarbed until I got the car in the air and had a proper look. Then I opted for a 4-2-1 anyway

Chris

[Ferg]

Yeah kicking myself for not going with a 421 already.
I thought it would be cheaper, but so far maybe looks like not in the long run. I'm pretty much commited now after spending money on downpipe etc...

PM sent vv the manifold.

[Ferg]

Right, I'm knackered, sore and still have a broken car.....I think it's time for a second opinion..

I removed the exuast manifold in the cold raining weather today. Not as straight forward a job as I hoped, but eventually got it out. After a thorough inspection I couldn't find anything wrong with it. Unfortunately the one I had to test as replacement showed significant cracks so didn't swap it out, but good to see an example of one that failed for reference. The gasket that came off showed no signed of 'sooting' or breaks.

So now it's had a new downpipe, and all the gaskets replaced. The manfold-head studs came out with the nuts, so just refitted them but made sure they were tight. I supose it could stil be possible that these aren't securing properly,...may have to elimate this yet..

I'm losing faith in my diagnostic abilities so think that a second opinion would be a good idea at this point.

Basically, the exhaust "sounds like" it's blowing near to the manifold. It gets louder (deafening) as you accelerate. After taking it out for a short run after fitting everything today, I reckon the engine does feel like it's resisting acceleration which may be significant. While I haven't checked the exhaust back from the Cat, cursory checks don't shown any obvious faults. I also don't think a hole in the exhaust after the cat would produce the same symptoms.

Anyone got any ideas slightly from left field? ...or anyone you'd suggest to go to who will offer some ideas?



On the plus side I also fitted my new rear Nitrons while I was there, sweet.

[Mikie711]

It's possible that the downpipe to manifold gasket was blown and still didn't seal when you replaced the downpipe. Can be a bugger to get it all lined up especially if you connect the bottom end before tightening the manifold to downpipe bolts. What does the downpipe gasket look like, any signs of blow through. Not many parts to go wrong really, if you still need a manifold I have a decent standard one knocking about somewhere.