DIY Porting for an idiot

alicrozier · Post by **alicrozier** » Sun Jul 30, 2006 10:10 pm

Lawrence wrote:
You'll need to time in the verniers Paul Thin has my gauges set up

Could that be what I'm bringing down to Edinburgh tomorrow? (I'm picking something up from Paul in the morning for you L.)

I was going to give you a call to arrange pickup. I'm back up to Aberdeen in the afternoon/evening if they need to go to Rich...

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sun Jul 30, 2006 10:15 pm

With the cam timing, I am completely in the dark. I know a bit of the theory (Or I did!) but not how to apply it. Any top tips?

Am I right in thinking a static setup would be get the max lift in the right area with a dial gauge as per the piper cam tables, as for beyond that....

Is a RR session required? I'm still want to do as much myself as possible

I'm keen to keep as much torque as possible for that kick in the back feeling (I knwo it's only a metro engine

) I'm I really going to notice the VVC manifold?

Ta
Rich

PS I'm pretty sure we have an ultrasonic bath here for cleaning engine filters, is it worth putting the injectors through it?

Lawrence · Post by **Lawrence** » Sun Jul 30, 2006 10:15 pm

I hope to hell it ain't the fridge

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sun Jul 30, 2006 10:21 pm

My head isn't drilled for a manual tensioner. Is it worth drilling some holes? or stick with automatic?

Rich

Lawrence · Post by **Lawrence** » Sun Jul 30, 2006 10:21 pm

RICHARDHUMBLE wrote:With the cam timing, I am completely in the dark. I know a bit of the theory (Or I did!) but not how to apply it. Any top tips?

Am I right in thinking a static setup would be get the max lift in the right area with a dial gauge as per the piper cam tables, as for beyond that.... Is a RR session required? I'm still want to do as much myself as possible

I'm keen to keep as much torque as possible for that kick in the back feeling (I knwo it's only a metro engine ) I'm I really going to notice the VVC manifold?

Ta
Rich

PS I'm pretty sure we have an ultrasonic bath here for cleaning engine filters, is it worth putting the injectors through it?

It'll be on Dave's site
http://members.aol.com/DVAndrews/kengine.htm#timecams

at top dead centre, confirmed by middle gauge set vernier to give required reading as engine is rotated off the cam, clockwise for exhaust, anticlockwise for inlet. It's easy with practice

Lawrence · Post by **Lawrence** » Sun Jul 30, 2006 10:23 pm

RICHARDHUMBLE wrote:My head isn't drilled for a manual tensioner. Is it worth drilling some holes? or stick with automatic?

Rich

I think they all have the holes....are you sure?

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sun Jul 30, 2006 10:35 pm

Lawrence · Post by **Lawrence** » Sun Jul 30, 2006 10:49 pm

ah!

the holes will be on the block then

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sun Jul 30, 2006 10:55 pm

Blue is where the tensioner goes, red is the auto, green is the manual (That aren't there...)

I can drill the holes no probs but is it worth it?

Lawrence · Post by **Lawrence** » Sun Jul 30, 2006 11:15 pm

Well if you can drill and tap them do so and then make the decision as to which to use later.

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sun Jul 30, 2006 11:36 pm

Is there a real advantage to the manual tensioner? Do the auto's fail?

Lawrence · Post by **Lawrence** » Sun Jul 30, 2006 11:45 pm

My understanding is that the auto can allow some change of timing when the spring moves. I have no idea at what point or with which cams it becomes a problem. Clearly with huge valve lifts this could be dangerous.

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sun Jul 30, 2006 11:55 pm

OK, I'll get a manual one then. It's only a clamping bolt afterall. Am I right in thinking that the spring is discarded after locking the tensioner? Also are the zorst studs standard? I only have 2 in the head.

Oh and does anyone need any bits of head or an anchor?
I have the following left over:

Full set of valves/springs/caps (No collets annoyingly)
1.4 low-port head (Anchor, paperweight, doorstop, etc)
Standard Cams and pullies

Happy to donate any of the above to the spares pool if anyone thinks it's worth it and wants to store it. Otherwise it's all going to the international bring-and-buy sale.

robin · Post by **robin** » Mon Jul 31, 2006 7:45 am

Lawrence wrote:
RICHARDHUMBLE wrote:

The shopping list will then be:

Verniers (4 mil )
Head gasket
New cam oil seals (Old ones fitted ATM)
cam cover gasket (Does anyone have a cam cover they don't need? It's the one bit of head I haven't got!)
Cambelt (Worth going for a piper?)
Tensioner (does it matter what sort I go for sa long sa it matches the tensioner?)
Cheap oil for a flush
Coolant
Decent oil for refill

Have I forgotton anything?

Rich
Don't change the colour of your antifreeze

Do change the cam seals or face a scary oil fire

Are the cams you have already run in - if not then they need to be run it at 2-3K for 10 minutes or so without any idling IIRC - piper will have info on their site or tech support line - otherwise you end up with damaged cam lobes. In theory you should douse liberally in cam-oil before you start the engine. I might do this even if the cams are second hand ... best done outdoors cause it's hot and noisy running the engine at anything other than idle in the garage!

Use a mineral oil for the flush and a quick run in - not necessary when changing heads normally, but your's will be full of swarf and mixed second hand bits that haven't got to know one another yet, so it's a bit like running in a new engine.

Cheers,
Robin

thinfourth · Post by **thinfourth** » Mon Jul 31, 2006 8:06 am

Lawrences set up along with my top dead center finder stuck in Alis car

i Found my TDC finder a bit more robust and less prone to movement then Lawrences set-up but will leave it with him to see how he gets on with it.