Project Build - Elise GT: Honda Swap / Widebody Conversion

[Mikie711]

On my first engine start up after re-build the main bearing on number 4 rod seized, gutted wasn't the word so feel your pain. But remember it will all be worth it in the end .

[MacLotus]

I'm confident it will be!

I'm just amazed the bathtub caulking didn't hold up between the head and the block. I may try outdoor silicone this time, although someone suggested using a head gasket. Maybe I'll try that if the silicone doesn't work?

[pete]

Still loving your work.

[MacLotus]

OK... obviously a major malfunction. Evidently, there is supposed to be a gasket that goes in between Head and Block... and the bathtub caulking I used did not hold. A teachable moment.

Just kidding.... a little humor to lighten the moment. At first I thought the problem might be coolant from the intake manifold, but after LJ and I pulled the manifold, we put a little pressure on the coolant system by blowing air into the header tank. Here is the problem area shown in this video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIXw3tczg-8

According to Endyn, there's apparently considerable porosity in (some) the TSX castings that isn't present in the K20A2's and Z3 castings. Endyn has done quite a number of the TSX heads over the last three years using the same program they used on mine. Many of the heads went to Honda R&D too. No problems with any of them.

Endyn immediately ran the program on another replacement TSX head they had and there were no leaks at 50PSI, but at 80PSI, it looked like a sprinkler! They sectioned the head (as they will with my returned head) and the wall thickness was still .090", and you couldn't see porosity with the naked eye, but were able to detect some when magnified.

They've recently had some new heads from Honda that had slivers of steel that became exposed when the heads were machined. Looked like steel thread popping out of the castings...so the quality that made Honda famous may not be what it used to.

At any rate, Larry at Endyn has been awesome and I can tell he takes this issue seriously. "We guarantee the quality of everything we sell Ken, and our warranty covers everything, including complete engines we build, break-in and tune on our dyno. Break it and we'll pay to get it back, fix or replace, and return shipment on us. This is the way I'd like to be treated, and our customers feel the same way. We use only the best parts and we have complete control over all of the machine work, because all of it is done in-house on the finest equipment money can buy. By the way, your new Z3 head was pressure tested to 100PSI with no leaks. I think you'll realize another 15hp with this head over the TSX due to the larger port volume, so you should really feel the difference."

I'm certainly bummed that I have to completely remove the engine to fix the problem, but I'm also glad I'm not dealing with a machine shop saying 'That's not our problem.' Endyn has really stepped up in my eyes. True professionals and highly recommended.

So here we are... pretty much disassembled and ready for the new head that should arrive early next week... even with a brand new Cometic Head Gasket. Thanks Endyn! (now I don't have to go buy more bathtub caulking).



At least I still have plenty of time before we put it on the dyno for spring track preparation!

Stay tuned... Mac out

[MacLotus]

--------------------------------------------------------------

Just received the new fully ported Z3 RBC head which has better flow characteristics than the TSX RBB head, so it should net another 10-15hp (according to Endyn).





Note it is marked RBC (vs. RBB). These marking correlate with the intake manifold they were designed to operate with (OE). If that's true, then the K20A2 should indicate PRB... and the JDM K20A would indicate PRC. (I think?)

Either way, Endyn indicates all the Honda Racing Teams use this head (K20 or K24).



Anyhow, since I didn't clearly show how to fit the engine earlier in this thread, I thought I would include a couple photos on how to best accomplish this with little effort. Again, I did this solo so it's really not that hard if done slowly and carefully.

Make sure the car is properly lifted off the ground (at least 10-12 inches). Tip the Transmission down at a 45 degree angle.



Starting with the trans, rotate the engine into place carefully and position your floor jack under the trans.



Slowly raise the trans up to level the engine between the chassis rails. Attach the front engine mounts but don't yet torque the bolts.



Continue to raise the trans up with the floor jack until engine is level.





Attach the trans mount, but again, don't torque the bolts yet. Install the lower anti-rotational mounts and torque all attachments together.



One other cool thing I wanted to show you was the header stabilizer Full Blown fabricated. Since the header pipes come straight off the engine (10-12 inches), it was appropriate to minimize stress where the manifold attaches the head.





Here it is mounted and it keeps the headers rigid with the engine.



So with the installation of the new head, and the re-installation of the engine and rear suspension components, I was able to successfully start the engine and run it for a few moments problem free. Here is the second 'First Start' video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LrfFy7e_5c

I was really surprised how responsive the engine/throttle was. Must have a little to do with that light flywheel!

Next post... the Dyno!!

Stay tuned... Mac out

[Mikie711]

. Brilliant, can't wait to see what it makes on the Dyno.

[Gourlay83]

I'll 2nd that, well done Ken. Awesome job.

We all have had issues/failures but you can't be blamed for the cylinder head. Hope you have been compensated .....

Cheers
Alan

[tut]

Just watched the video. Looks the kind of guy that you would like to sit down and have a beer with.

tut

[MacLotus]

Thanks mates! Couldn't have done it without you! (especially you Alan)

... and 'yes' Tut, maybe two or three... or four... or

[MacLotus]

Oh... and Tut... I must say your wife is beautiful (avatar). You're a lucky man. I bet she keeps you young and spry?!

[H8OAG]

I am almost disappointed that this conversion is reaching a successful conclusion.
Keep the thread running so we can see how it does on track .....when the weather improves

Your attention to detail alongside the supporting photography made it a good read.

P.S.

I have seen Operating Theaters less clean than your garage floor

[tut]

Thanks Ken, I wish. I am a 70 year OAP, Verian is a 61 year OAP. Just showed her the post and she said fat chance of you pulling anyone like her, get a photo of her granny.

Just a pic that I found on the Net and quite fancied. It used to be this one, but they made me change back.



Cheers

tut

ps couple of pics of N3 TUT, best colour of course but not quite up to your build standard. However S/C Honda JDM engine so it would be fun being on track with you.

[MacLotus]

Hah!! She looks great for 61 mate!!! (Isn't that the same experience as 3 twenty year olds??)

Thanks for the pictures. Yes... I love the color... and the power plant is awesome. I think I'll start building a second engine (K20 SC CC'd) so I can keep up with you.

[MacLotus]

Greetings my faithful forum following! We finally near the end of this incredible project as I have finally put the car on the dyno and driven it. As expected.... Wow!! It's a little scary... but then I just need some time to get used to it.

After the successful first starts and adjustments to AFR, I reinstalled the rear clam shell and buttoned things up for the trip to Full Blown Motorsports for the dyno. After starting it back up with the clam in place, I noticed those 'over-the-top' headers can generate some heat. While things probably would have been just fine, I felt the rear deck lid was getting a little warm without airflow (at idle when the car is not moving). I managed to find some 1/4" heat barrier on eBay and with the help of some double-sided carpet tape and some aluminum duct tape, I was able to create an amazingly efficient heat barrier for my rear deck lid.



I think it looks great and the deck lid is absolutely cool to the touch... and I might add the cool zone is as cool as can be!! Even after 15 minutes at idle.



Lastly, I decided to change the rear license plate from 'Rover Power' to 'Frankenstein'.


____________________________________________________________________________

"Sometimes it becomes necessary to dig up the right parts to create the perfect beast."
- Dr. Victor Frankenstein

Lotus Chassis... TSX Block... Z3 Head... RSX Type S Transmission... Hondata Brains... To his memory shall this build be dedicated.
____________________________________________________________________________

And now, after much anticipation... the dyno video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dlQCyW0t0Ys

Some of you may have expected more... I know I was. My target was 275whp. After much discussion with LJ at Full Blown Motorsports (my tuner), we believe the HP (or lack there-of) is attributable to two things... or more aptly put, two decisions I made during the build process. Cam choice and sticking with the 25 degree TSX VTC.

Originally, I had planned to use IPS K10's with a 50 degree VTC gear, but after discussing the issue with Larry @ Endyn, and the risk involved when using 12.5:1 pistons on a high-rpm K24 (bottom end designed for 9500 rpm), I didn't want to chance piston to valve collision at full spin.

I also opted to go with Endyn's cam, which is very smooth, but may be more of a mild Stage 1 (when compared to other cams on the market). Here's the specs on the Endyn Cams.

Endyn Intake Cam



Endyn Exhaust Cam



Here's the dyno graph...



As I approached this build, I never really made my priority power or torque, but rather dependability and longevity on the track. I also didn't want so much power, it took the fun out of driving this car. So my attitude leaving the dyno was 'It is what it is. It's never been about the numbers. If after driving the car a season on the track, that I feel I need more power... change the cams and machine a TSX VTC to 45 degrees and stick it in. Then you'll have your 280whp."

So with that... I drive it for the first time (albeit my neighborhood and not the track).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyvM606EL-w

All I can say is that based on what I felt from the car, this is more than ample power for a 1650 lb track car. I will have to re-learn how to drive the car (given its new attitude), so maybe a season under my belt and I'll opt to go with more aggressive cams and VTC... but maybe not? Time will tell.

Next stop is to have the car corner balanced and put on it's new Hankook slicks... then it's on to the track for some fun (May 2nd @ BIR). Hope to see you there!

And stay tuned for some exciting track video, as I just finished designing a cool new digital dash overlay with all the car's telemetry (in HD).

Stay tuned... Mac out!

[Gourlay83]

That's a cracking Torque Curve Ken, really flat.

Surprised by the amount of power but 240bhp is plenty, enjoy

Alan