The place to "speak geek"
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IanD
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by IanD » Tue Feb 25, 2014 7:53 pm
I've got all bolts for the front clam on my s2 111s removed or loosened apart from the front bolt holding the near side indicator panel and clam together - no 1 in the pic from the mloc guide.
The bolt is really rusted and lost all shape of the bolt, I'm chewing it up trying to loosen it. Question is can I just grind the bolt to a small enough post stump which frees up the bond between the clam and indicator panel, allowing me to remove the clam and afterwards remove what remains or is there an embedded thread still causing the indicator panel and clam to remain together due to a captive bracket or nut in the middle ? Grinding the bolt head off seems easiest if it frees it all up but not if I then need to find a way of drilling out the centre afterwards.
Any other ideas welcome, sprayed some release stuff on it a couple of times but due to lack of a bolt shape there isn't much grip.

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highlander
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by highlander » Wed Feb 26, 2014 9:40 pm
Can't help you on the clam removal I'm afraid but removing the remains of the bolt should be achievable.I personally haven't had much success with the stud extractor "drills"...the left hand thread items but each to there own.If drilling out the remains damaged the thread,is there the option to helicoil or is spark erosion the answer(don't know how to achieve this as a DIY option)
Hope you get it sorted soon,weathers getting OK and hopefully there'll be no more salting the roads.
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ninja
- Posts: 1086
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by ninja » Thu Feb 27, 2014 1:00 am
i had a similar problem with my S2 elise - i used an angle grinder to DESTROY those two feckers! spend 2 days and split tools and knuckles trying to do things the right way - eventually i just went Neanderthal on them, then had a beer to celebrate.
mine still had epoxy holding the two panels together tho
ninja
2009 Evora - Matt Black Wrap - Sports, tech 2 & Premium Packs - Hard Wired Snooper
2015 Merc SLK - White - wife's car spec with heated and electric everything
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ninja
- Posts: 1086
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by ninja » Thu Feb 27, 2014 1:01 am
i also tried to turn it into a screw by cutting a line in the bolt head
that didn't work either, even with a screwdriver with a 1/2" flathead
ninja
2009 Evora - Matt Black Wrap - Sports, tech 2 & Premium Packs - Hard Wired Snooper
2015 Merc SLK - White - wife's car spec with heated and electric everything
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Claws
- Posts: 157
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by Claws » Thu Feb 27, 2014 1:14 am
A Dremel will have that off in about 9 seconds.
With the clam off you will be able to get the remainder out with vice grips
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highlander
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by highlander » Thu Feb 27, 2014 5:53 pm
There's a professional release fluid,rather than WD40,but can't remember the brand name at the moment...doh!!!
Any chance of some heat on the remains of the bolt,that works 99% of the time but obviously can do a bit of cosmetic damage?
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IanD
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by IanD » Thu Feb 27, 2014 6:29 pm
Claws wrote:A Dremel will have that off in about 9 seconds.
With the clam off you will be able to get the remainder out with vice grips
perfect, that is what i wanted to hear so shouldn't be a problem as I've got a 'borrow' of my dad dremmel with its 50 tool attachments and a tube of grinding disks, 'borrow' defined as I 'm keeping it forever unless he asks for it back
I did spray loads of Halfords release spray on it a few times over Sunday afternoon and it wasn't moving, not checked since and although the bolt may be a bit stuck i think the biggest problem is that the bolt head is just a rusty blob so no kind of grip with any spanner and a bit awkward for a decent grip with mole grips.
highlander - you wont have any issues with new Elise every part on your new motor must be lovingly and newly re-assembled

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graeme
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by graeme » Thu Feb 27, 2014 6:36 pm
If you haven't used the cutty-dremel before, keep the grinding disks absolutely perpendicular to the surface you're cutting, and apply pressure downwards without any lateral pressure on the disk. They snap really easily. Especially the last one in the tube... that bugger always snaps so you have to drive to get more.

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highlander
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by highlander » Thu Feb 27, 2014 9:12 pm
I'm not big on spannering these days but like to pretend a bit under the bonnet....helps me to love my vehicles....not expecting many woes with the new car(touch wood)
Another trick I've seen done is to arc weld a spanner/flat bar/what-ever onto the rusted in bolt for more leverage but fear here is that it'll just shear if it's 1/2" or smaller.
Any joy with it yet or is it a weekend job?
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IanD
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by IanD » Fri Feb 28, 2014 12:10 am
highlander wrote:Any joy with it yet or is it a weekend job?
Afraid only a weekend job. Car is in our garage but there isn't any space at the sides to work on it in there and I work all day weekdays.
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highlander
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by highlander » Mon Mar 03, 2014 7:28 pm
How'd you get on with the reluctant bolt this weekend Ian....clam finally off or too cold to work with hand tools outside?
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IanD
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by IanD » Sat Mar 08, 2014 5:32 pm
Bolt dremmel'd off in a minute and clam off car, bolt removed, radiator out and fans off so stage 1 complete so not too bad for someone with little skills.
Off to pictures to watch Lego movie now so progress stops for today.
Only problems are dropped my 10mm spanner and it disappeared no idea where it went and battery is goosed even after a week on a new Optimate charger so new battery required.
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Claws
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by Claws » Sat Mar 08, 2014 6:48 pm
Good news! Nice progress

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highlander
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by highlander » Sun Mar 09, 2014 1:51 am
Result,putting it back together should be easy enough then with stainless fixings.....saw a kit someplace but probably cheaper to source individually if you have the time.
Did the remains of the rusted in bolt eventually come out?