D-Cat Fitting Issues - HELP!!

[Danny T30TUS]

Hey folks,

Looking for some help.

Went to fit a decat pipe to my S2 tonight. After wrestling to remove the defuser panel for a bit i managed to get all the fasteners removed eventually.

Right onto the problem. I was expecting some rusty bolts etc so i soaked them all in WD for a good while. I managed to get the 3 bolts on the right hand side freed. I then went to remove the left hand side ones. Put the spanner on and as expected the studs and nuts disintigrated. No major issue as i have replacements so will just cut them off and replace.

The final piece was trying to remove the lamda sensor. Again I soaked it in WD for a good while before trying to remove it. I have a proper lamda sensor socket so was using a ratchet to try and free the sensor. Eventually the car was starting to roll with the handbrake on. So I chocked the wheels and began pulling some more. Eventully the ratchet broke and knuckles well and truly bashed.

Next I tried applying some heat to that area of the CAT where the sensor screws into. Again after constant cursing and swearing im still unable to break it free.

So I thought lets disconnect the sensor from the plug in the engine bay and i will leave it attached to the CAT and cut the siezed bolts from the left hand side. This way I could get the cat in a vice and try to remove the sensor however, I cant get the plug on the end of the wiring to pull through the clam and I dont want to risk either A, breaking the rear clam or B, Pulling the plug of the wires.

After 4 hours of wasted time. Has anyone got any suggestions on how to remove the Lamda sensor?

Any ideas welcome.

Thanks

Danny



Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

[martins]

Yota or Rover engine?

If it is a Yota then you can def get the connector wire free and clear with it still in the pipe. I believe you can do the same with the Rover lump but have no experience of same. There is no way you will be able to remove same with in in situ as the heat/cold cycles damn near welds the thing in place. Had the same issue with my Yota lump and had to get the pipe off and on the garage floor with heat, a hammer, a 24 inch persuader and a 15 stone mate to free it.

You picked the wrong time to do this as many of the engineering experts on these cars are at SPAZZ. swines...

Where r u and what is the car you are working on?

Martin

[Danny T30TUS]

Thanks Martin,

I'm in Aberdeen and its a Rover engine.

I have thought about buying another Lamda sensor and cutting the wire on the existing one and the new one. I would then have to join the wires using some type of connector. This way I dont need to worry about wrestling with the old sensor as when it comes to MOT time i could simply disconnect the one from the decat and reconnect the one on the cat.

Not being an electrical guru i'm not sure if this would work.

Anyone got a spare lamds sensor?

Thanks

Danny

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

[r10crw]

Hei Daniel,

If its not coming through the clam you can just cut the wires. Cut near the plug and if all are white cut all slightly different lengths so you can join them.

Alternatively come round on Sunday and we can get heat on with the oxy acetelene....

[r10crw]

Oh and there are probably sensors lying around here.

[Danny T30TUS]

Cheers Craig. I wont be able to do Sunday as have a wedding tonight which will likely be a late one and wont be fit to drive until late tomorrow.

You got any plans for next Sunday?

Cheers

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

[neil]

Instead of using WD try plusgas - works far better for freeing stuck bolts

[r10crw]

Ill let you know, unless you aim for early am or later in the day as I have a sneaky suspicion I'm roped into some for of parenting.