Toe link hairy moment!
Re: Toe link hairy moment!
Sadly not, it is for an S1.
Pete at Seriously Lotus is worth a shout for the S2?
http://www.seriouslylotus.com/track-rac ... e-link-kit
Pete at Seriously Lotus is worth a shout for the S2?
http://www.seriouslylotus.com/track-rac ... e-link-kit

- Mellow Yellow
- Posts: 91
- Joined: Tue Jul 01, 2014 11:51 am
Re: Toe link hairy moment!
This thread makes crazy reading, I'll be getting an upgraded set asap. Well done on the save! Couldn't stop thinking about this on the drive home tonight, don't think I went over 30mph lol
Are there any other safety related gremlins that can occur on the s2?
Are there any other safety related gremlins that can occur on the s2?
Re: Toe link hairy moment!
I wouldn't call it a gremlin, parts will wear out on any car. And if you look at most of the one's in this thread that have failed - it's either ancient S1'sMellow Yellow wrote:..........Are there any other safety related gremlins that can occur on the s2?


My car sadly falls into just the ancient category (15 years old - ouch) so I should really think about replacing them.... but they're just so expensive! However the grip on my new Yokohama Advans really is making me think it's time for a pre-emptive strike

I remember Shugs failure, it didn't look pretty and I think the consensus was that, especially grippy tyres was a contributing factor?
scott
S1 50th Ann.
Re: Toe link hairy moment!
Scott the parts from McGill are good and the whole kit comes in at about £120
If you're not living on the edge you're wasting too much space!
Re: Toe link hairy moment!
Scott's on the money - the vast majority of failures can be attributed to lots of kerb leaping track use, sticky tyres or older cars where the balljoints on the links seize. For exclusively road use on road tyres, you're unlikely ever to have an issue.Scottd wrote:I wouldn't call it a gremlin, parts will wear out on any car. And if you look at most of the one's in this thread that have failed - it's either ancient S1'sMellow Yellow wrote:..........Are there any other safety related gremlins that can occur on the s2?or cars driven to the max and then some. Or both
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My car sadly falls into just the ancient category (15 years old - ouch) so I should really think about replacing them.... but they're just so expensive! However the grip on my new Yokohama Advans really is making me think it's time for a pre-emptive strike![]()
I remember Shugs failure, it didn't look pretty and I think the consensus was that, especially grippy tyres was a contributing factor?
scott
And yes, when they go (mine went on the road after a Tut Towers in a third gear right hander) they focus the mind somewhat. Mine was running semi-slicks with aggressive geo for years before one popped - and it ended up being a balljoint seizure that caused it.
2010 Honda VFR1200F
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
Re: Toe link hairy moment!
Regarding the ball-joints seizing; is there a way to check this without disassembling the link?
Re: Toe link hairy moment!
Just grab a hold of the toe link bar and rotate it. It should rotate freely on the ball joints. If it doesn't then one or both are seized. On mine it was the outer joint that seized and then broke.
If you're not living on the edge you're wasting too much space!
Re: Toe link hairy moment!
SWEET! I saw ur post but I didn't add it all up. I'll call them tomorrow with your list in hand! Cheers StephenStephen wrote:Scott the parts from McGill are good and the whole kit comes in at about £120
S1 50th Ann.
Re: Toe link hairy moment!
Scot you will need to get a couple of bits from deroure too. A pair of heat shields and the conical spacers. They are not expensive though.
If you're not living on the edge you're wasting too much space!
Re: Toe link hairy moment!
Scott
The other parts you need are listed on the attached diagram. You will need part 12 *2 one for each side they are handed! Depending on whether you have steel or alloy to you will need either 22*2 or 1&2*2.
The only issue that I had is that the dislocation top hat spacers from McGill must be thicker / longer than the ones that lotus do so I had a gap of 2-3mm between the double shear heat shield bracket and the subframe. I just horses it on but intend to take things back off and file the top hats down a bit.
You need the top hats as the rose joints specified have an id of 12mm (stronger) where the cap bolt is 10mm. I also used 4*90mm cap bolts and appropriate lock nuts. If you have alloy hub carriers I think you will need 2*80mm for the inners and 2*100mm for the outers. I just got 4 of each and used what fitted best as they are cheap.
Best of luck.
Stephen.
https://www.deroure.com/diagrams.asp?MA ... 0&ST=&SC=0
The other parts you need are listed on the attached diagram. You will need part 12 *2 one for each side they are handed! Depending on whether you have steel or alloy to you will need either 22*2 or 1&2*2.
The only issue that I had is that the dislocation top hat spacers from McGill must be thicker / longer than the ones that lotus do so I had a gap of 2-3mm between the double shear heat shield bracket and the subframe. I just horses it on but intend to take things back off and file the top hats down a bit.
You need the top hats as the rose joints specified have an id of 12mm (stronger) where the cap bolt is 10mm. I also used 4*90mm cap bolts and appropriate lock nuts. If you have alloy hub carriers I think you will need 2*80mm for the inners and 2*100mm for the outers. I just got 4 of each and used what fitted best as they are cheap.
Best of luck.
Stephen.
https://www.deroure.com/diagrams.asp?MA ... 0&ST=&SC=0
If you're not living on the edge you're wasting too much space!