S2 Toe Links
Re: S2 Toe Links
PS the S1 steel hub carrier is not recessed it is flat.
If you're not living on the edge you're wasting too much space!
Re: S2 Toe Links
Robin, on the 2 upper bolts you mention (on each corner), I assume these are top hub mounting bolts where the camber shims are?
The service book states "In March '04 the caphead bolts securing the ball joint plinth to the hub carrier were upgraded from 8.8 to 10.9 grade, with a corresponding increase in torque from 45 to 68 Nm. Before fitting these bolts, inspect the cap head for the grade marking, apply Permabond A130 (A912E7033) to the threads, and torque tighten to the appropriate figure."
Thought that was interesting as you mentioned recommended torque for 8.8 and what a known supplier had suggested when using 10.9 grade bolts. I would have assumed higher tensile bolt strength means you torque them more which seems to accord with the manual.
The service book states "In March '04 the caphead bolts securing the ball joint plinth to the hub carrier were upgraded from 8.8 to 10.9 grade, with a corresponding increase in torque from 45 to 68 Nm. Before fitting these bolts, inspect the cap head for the grade marking, apply Permabond A130 (A912E7033) to the threads, and torque tighten to the appropriate figure."
Thought that was interesting as you mentioned recommended torque for 8.8 and what a known supplier had suggested when using 10.9 grade bolts. I would have assumed higher tensile bolt strength means you torque them more which seems to accord with the manual.
Last edited by BigD on Thu Oct 02, 2014 12:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: S2 Toe Links
The hub should be fine but where you use higher tensile bolts you should use a grade higher nuts. The nuts tend to be harder to source so this often doesn't happen. I guess then you should torque to the weakest component.
Always worth checking.
With the toe links the bolts are 10.9 and the nuts specified are 8.8 I think.
Always worth checking.
With the toe links the bolts are 10.9 and the nuts specified are 8.8 I think.
If you're not living on the edge you're wasting too much space!
Re: S2 Toe Links
On the exploded diagram it shows the bottom balljoint and looks like its tapered, the part is listed as a "tapered" balljoint as opposed to the inner which is not. So it looks like the bolt into the hub is tapered and so is the hole to accept the tapered balljoint. (I know on other cars the balljoints can be tapered which is what makes them difficult to remove sometimes without a big hammer.) Maybe the hole is just straight though as the tapered balljoint will still pull in and tighten. I guess I'll need to dismantle and look but thought someone who had fitted the kit would know/remember. Robin will no doubt remember this.Stephen wrote:I'm pretty sure that the tapered aspects are the inboard washer / spacer between the ball joint and the subframe. ( this may be redundant if you install a double shear bracket) and the tapered spacer between the ball joint and the hub. Have a look at yours and establish if the hub on the S2 has a recess. If it does then I suggest either buy the spacer from Eliseparts or speak nicely to Stu. I opted for off the shelf rose joints to allow me to replace them cheaply if required rather than being stuck with a single supplier.
You wouldn't want a straight bolt through a tapered hole unless there was something to hold it central as it could move on the horizontal axis, I think.
Yes Stu was in my mind for an insert if I need it.
Re: S2 Toe Links
Agree, I assumed if using 10.9 bolts you would automatically get 10.9 nuts too otherwise what is the point. Is a higher tensile strength bolt also stronger in sheer?Stephen wrote:The hub should be fine but where you use higher tensile bolts you should use a grade higher nuts. The nuts tend to be harder to source so this often doesn't happen. I guess then you should torque to the weakest component.
Always worth checking.
With the toe links the bolts are 10.9 and the nuts specified are 8.8 I think.
The upper mount bolts that Robin mentioned bolt into captive welded nuts (or at least a tapped part of the hub) and the manual states to torque higher, not sure what the tensile strength of the captive nuts would be?!
Why is it that answers often lead to yet more questions.
Re: S2 Toe Links
I just stole this from SELOC
This bulletin (issue 6) supersedes bulletin 2003/11 issue 5 (03.08.06), which should be discarded.
Update relates to supercession of Cleave nut A116W3183F by Philidas nut A117W3189F.
Introduction of toe-link fine pitch ball joints.
Further to Service Bulletin 2001/06 (clarification of rear suspension toe-link joints and related
components), two further iterations of toe-link ball joint have now been introduced in order to com-
monise componentry on new vehicles and enhance consistency of torque control.
1. Fine pitch thread ball pins; approx. intro. point: '03 M.Y. VIN serial no. 4669 (June '03).
2. Taper shank outboard ball pins; approx. intro. point: '04 M.Y. VIN serial no. 0614 (August '03).
Before replacing toe-link ball joints on any Elise, it is vital to ensure that the various permutations
of related components are correctly identified and/or selected before the appropriate assembly
configuration is applied.
Related Component - Rear Subframe
Introduced for 'Mk.2' Elise, and carried over for service replacement on all Elise, is a 'G' level
version G111A0057F, which includes lower wishbone rear pivot point reinforcement plates made
from hardened steel. These subframes are identifiable by the triangular reinforcements having a
small 45° chamfer at their inboard top corner. Triangular plates with no corner chamfer, or earlier
type circular reinforcement plates indicate an earlier level of subframe (see illustration overleaf).
Toe-Link Inboard Ball Joint
The inboard joint has a LH thread into the toe-link tube, and was introduced in 1996 with a female
thread in the ball. These were superceded in December '98 by joints using ball pins with integral
studs. Integral stud type joints have been produced in versions with either an 8.8 grade ball pin
(for 'Mk.1'), or, in coarse(1.5mm) or fine (1.25mm) thread pitch 10.9 grade pins (for 'Mk.2'). The
8.8 grade version has a 60mm long ball pin, and is identifiable by the bright silver colour of the ball
pin, whereas the 10.9 grade parallel shank versions are 65mm long, with the fine thread variant
being introduced in June 2003.
'Mk.1' Elise with female threaded ball joints (prior VIN W 5479 {December '98})
Female threaded joints require careful bolt selection and assembly (refer to Service Notes section
DE.4) and are no longer available.
The recommended service replacement is fine thread 10.9 grade joint A117D0090S together
with hardened washer A117A0118F and Philidas lock nut A117W3189F torqued to 45 Nm.
'Mk.1' Elise with integral stud ball joints and original subframe
Either of the 1.5mm pitch ball joints may have been fitted, using no washer between joint and
subframe, but both 8.8 and 10.9 grade joints should be torque tightened to 45 Nm.
The recommended service replacement on any 'Mk.1' with original (non-hardened) subframe,
is fine thread 10.9 grade joint A117D0090S together with hardened washer A117A0118F and
Philidas lock nut A117W3189F torqued to 45 Nm.
'Mk.1' Elise with integral stud ball joints and service replacement 'G' level subframe
These cars could have been fitted with either of the 1.5mm pitch joints, but the nut grade and torque
applied must match the joint type; 8.8 grade = 45 Nm; 10.9 grade = 74 Nm. The recommended
service replacement on any 'Mk.1' with 'G' level subframe, is fine thread 10.9 grade joint
A117D0090S together with hardened washer A117A0118F and Philidas lock nut A117W3189F
torqued to 50 Nm.
'Mk.2' cars prior to June '03
These cars will have been built with the coarse thread (1.5mm pitch) 10.9 grade joint, hardended
washer and 10.9 grade cleave nut, tightened to 74 Nm.
The recommended service replacement is fine thread 10.9 grade joint A117D0090S together
with hardened washer A117A0118F (already fitted) and Philidas lock nut A117W3189F torqued
to 50 Nm.
'Mk.2' cars from June '03
Service replacement is as original build, i.e: fine thread 10.9 grade joint A117D0090S to-
gether with hardened washer A117A0118F (already fitted) and Philidas lock nut A117W3189F
(already fitted) torqued to 50 Nm.
Inboard Ball Joint Summary
Ball Joint, toe-link inboard, female thread ball
A111D0063F
R/B joint A117D0090S + washer A117A0118F + nut A117W3189F
Ball Joint, toe-link inboard, LH thread, 8.8 grade, M10x1.5, 60mm long
A111D0135F
R/B joint A117D0090S + washer A117A0118F + nut A117W3189F
Ball Joint, toe-link inboard, LH thread, 10.9 grade, M10x1.5, 65mm long
A116D0035F
R/B joint A117D0090S + washer A117A0118F + nut A117W3189F
Ball Joint, toe-link inboard, LH thread, 10.9 grade, M10x1.25, 65mm long
A117D0090S
Nyloc Nut, M10, 8.8 grade, M10x1.5 (use with A111D0135F)
A075W3011Z
Cleave Nut, M10, 10.9 grade, M10x1.5 (use with A116D0035F)
A117W3177F
Philidas Lock Nut, M10, 8.8 grade, M10x1.25 (use with A117D0090S)
A117W3189F
Hardened Washer
A117A0118F
Notes
When assembling the inboard ball joint, fit hardened washer A117A0118F between the ball pin
and subframe, and ensure that the flats on the ball pin are aligned horizontally for optimum load
distribution.
Toe-Link Outboard Ball Joint
The outboard joint has a RH thread into the toe-link tube, and was introduced in 1996 with a
female thread in the ball. These were superceded in December '98 by joints using ball pins with
integral studs. Integral stud type joints have been produced in two 8.8 grade ball pin versions for
the 'Mk.1' model, one with 60mm long ball pin for alloy hub carriers, and one with 45mm long ball
pin for steel hub carriers. For the 'Mk.2' cars, the ball joint uses a 10.9 grade ball pin, 45mm long,
with a fine pitch version introduced in June 2003, and a taper shank version in August 2003.
'Mk.1' Elise with female threaded ball joints (prior VIN W 5479 {December'98}) & alloy hub carri-
ers
Female threaded joints require careful bolt selection and assembly (refer to Service Notes section
DE.4) and are no longer available. Fitment of an integral stud type joint also requires that a dif-
ferent conical spacer and shim stack be fitted (refer to Service Notes section DE.4 for assembly
details)
The recommended service replacement is 60mm long (8.8 grade) joint A111D0134F torqued
to 45 Nm, and used with conical spacer B111D0043F, shims A111D0136F, washer A111W4163F
and nut A075W3011Z.
'Mk.1' Elise with integral stud ball joints and alloy hub carriers
The recommended service replaceement is as for original build, using 60mm long (8.8 grade)
joint A111D0134F, torqued to 45 Nm.
'Mk.1' Elise with steel hub carriers (approx. November '99 - refer to S/B 1999/17)
Early cars used the previous type 60mm long joint (A111D0134F) with a 10mm long spacer on top
of the hub carrier, and 45 Nm torque; Later cars used a 45mm long 8.8 grade joint B111D0134F
to dispense with the 10mm spacer, torqued to 45 Nm.
The recommended service replacement on all 'Mk.1' with steel hub carriers, is fine thread
joint A117D0074S and Philidas lock nut A117W3189F torqued to 50 Nm. See also note 4.
'Mk.2' cars prior to '03 M.Y. VIN 4669 (June '03)
These cars were built with a 10.9 grade version of the joint, A116D0034F, with 45mm long stud
(blackened appearance) together with a 10.9 cleave nut tightened to 74 Nm.
The recommended service replacement is fine thread 10.9 grade joint A117D0074S together
with Philidas lock nut A117W3189F torqued to 50 Nm. See also note 4.
'Mk.2' cars from '03 M.Y. VIN 4669 (June '03) to '04 M.Y. VIN 0613 (August '03)
Service replacement is as original build, i.e: fine thread 10.9 grade joint A117D0074S with
Philidas lock nut A117W3189F torqued to 50 Nm. See also note 4.
'Mk.2' cars with taper shank ball pins (from August '03)
Introduced in August '03 at '04 M.Y. VIN 0614 was a taper shank version of the joint together with
correspondingly machined hub carriers and an M12 Nyloc nut. This joint dispenses with the spacer
formerly fitted between the joint and the hub carrier.
Service replacement is as original build, i.e: taper shank joint A117D0089S with Nyloc nut
A100C6019F torqued to 55 Nm.
Outboard Ball Joint Summary
Ball Joint, toe-link outboard, female thread ball
A111D0064F
R/B joint A111D0134F, spacer B111D0043F, shims A111D0136F, washer A111W4163F, nut
A075W3011Z.
Ball Joint, toe-link outboard, RH thread, 8.8 grade, 60mm long
A111D0134F
(use only with alloy hub carrier)
Ball Joint, toe-link outboard, RH thread, 8.8 grade, M10x1.5, 45mm long
B111D0134F
R/B A117D0074S + A117W3189F
Ball Joint, toe-link outboard, RH thread, 10.9 grade, M10x1.5, 45mm long
A116D0034F
R/B A117D0074S + A117W3189F
Ball Joint, toe-link outboard, RH thread, 10.9 grade, M10x1.25, 45mm long A117D0074S
Ball Joint, toe-link outboard, RH thread, taper shank
A117D0089S
Nyloc Nut, M10, 8.8 grade, M10x1.5 (use with A/B111D0134F)
A075W3011Z
Cleave Nut, M10, 10.9 grade, M10x1.5 (use with A116D0034F)
A117W3177F
Philidas Lock Nut, M10, 8.8 grade, M10x1.25 (use with A117D0074S)
A117W3189F
Nyloc Nut, M12, 8.8 grade (use with A117D0089S)
A100C6019F
Toe-Link Assembly (inc. A117D0090S & A117D0089S)
B117D0088F
Notes
1. Service replacement alloy rear hub carriers are no longer available, and are replaced by the
forged steel carrier as detailed in Service Bulletin 1999/17.
2. When assembling the outboard joint, ensure that the flats on the ball pin are aligned with the
axis of the toe link, in order to provide optimum joint rocking stability.
3. On 'Mk.2' Elise, ensure that the double chamfered bump steer spacer (shim stack on 'Mk.1')
is fitted between the ball pin and the underside of the hub carrier, with the 10mm unchamfered
spacer on top of the carrier leg.
4. In all cases, ensure that the stud thread protrudes completely through the locking feature of the
retaining nut, and also that the nut is in no danger of bottoming out on the shank. On outboard
joints (except taper shank), the thread protrusion is dependent on the thickness of the bump steer
shim pack or selective spacer. If necessary, fit a flat washer beneath the nut to prevent any pos-
sibility of the nut bottoming out on the thread.
5. Ensure that the ball joints are orientated at 90° to each other to allow free articulation.
6. Refer also to S/B 2005/04 (Track use chassis brace kit).
Any queries should be addressed to Lotus Service Technical (technical@lotuscars.co.uk)
This bulletin (issue 6) supersedes bulletin 2003/11 issue 5 (03.08.06), which should be discarded.
Update relates to supercession of Cleave nut A116W3183F by Philidas nut A117W3189F.
Introduction of toe-link fine pitch ball joints.
Further to Service Bulletin 2001/06 (clarification of rear suspension toe-link joints and related
components), two further iterations of toe-link ball joint have now been introduced in order to com-
monise componentry on new vehicles and enhance consistency of torque control.
1. Fine pitch thread ball pins; approx. intro. point: '03 M.Y. VIN serial no. 4669 (June '03).
2. Taper shank outboard ball pins; approx. intro. point: '04 M.Y. VIN serial no. 0614 (August '03).
Before replacing toe-link ball joints on any Elise, it is vital to ensure that the various permutations
of related components are correctly identified and/or selected before the appropriate assembly
configuration is applied.
Related Component - Rear Subframe
Introduced for 'Mk.2' Elise, and carried over for service replacement on all Elise, is a 'G' level
version G111A0057F, which includes lower wishbone rear pivot point reinforcement plates made
from hardened steel. These subframes are identifiable by the triangular reinforcements having a
small 45° chamfer at their inboard top corner. Triangular plates with no corner chamfer, or earlier
type circular reinforcement plates indicate an earlier level of subframe (see illustration overleaf).
Toe-Link Inboard Ball Joint
The inboard joint has a LH thread into the toe-link tube, and was introduced in 1996 with a female
thread in the ball. These were superceded in December '98 by joints using ball pins with integral
studs. Integral stud type joints have been produced in versions with either an 8.8 grade ball pin
(for 'Mk.1'), or, in coarse(1.5mm) or fine (1.25mm) thread pitch 10.9 grade pins (for 'Mk.2'). The
8.8 grade version has a 60mm long ball pin, and is identifiable by the bright silver colour of the ball
pin, whereas the 10.9 grade parallel shank versions are 65mm long, with the fine thread variant
being introduced in June 2003.
'Mk.1' Elise with female threaded ball joints (prior VIN W 5479 {December '98})
Female threaded joints require careful bolt selection and assembly (refer to Service Notes section
DE.4) and are no longer available.
The recommended service replacement is fine thread 10.9 grade joint A117D0090S together
with hardened washer A117A0118F and Philidas lock nut A117W3189F torqued to 45 Nm.
'Mk.1' Elise with integral stud ball joints and original subframe
Either of the 1.5mm pitch ball joints may have been fitted, using no washer between joint and
subframe, but both 8.8 and 10.9 grade joints should be torque tightened to 45 Nm.
The recommended service replacement on any 'Mk.1' with original (non-hardened) subframe,
is fine thread 10.9 grade joint A117D0090S together with hardened washer A117A0118F and
Philidas lock nut A117W3189F torqued to 45 Nm.
'Mk.1' Elise with integral stud ball joints and service replacement 'G' level subframe
These cars could have been fitted with either of the 1.5mm pitch joints, but the nut grade and torque
applied must match the joint type; 8.8 grade = 45 Nm; 10.9 grade = 74 Nm. The recommended
service replacement on any 'Mk.1' with 'G' level subframe, is fine thread 10.9 grade joint
A117D0090S together with hardened washer A117A0118F and Philidas lock nut A117W3189F
torqued to 50 Nm.
'Mk.2' cars prior to June '03
These cars will have been built with the coarse thread (1.5mm pitch) 10.9 grade joint, hardended
washer and 10.9 grade cleave nut, tightened to 74 Nm.
The recommended service replacement is fine thread 10.9 grade joint A117D0090S together
with hardened washer A117A0118F (already fitted) and Philidas lock nut A117W3189F torqued
to 50 Nm.
'Mk.2' cars from June '03
Service replacement is as original build, i.e: fine thread 10.9 grade joint A117D0090S to-
gether with hardened washer A117A0118F (already fitted) and Philidas lock nut A117W3189F
(already fitted) torqued to 50 Nm.
Inboard Ball Joint Summary
Ball Joint, toe-link inboard, female thread ball
A111D0063F
R/B joint A117D0090S + washer A117A0118F + nut A117W3189F
Ball Joint, toe-link inboard, LH thread, 8.8 grade, M10x1.5, 60mm long
A111D0135F
R/B joint A117D0090S + washer A117A0118F + nut A117W3189F
Ball Joint, toe-link inboard, LH thread, 10.9 grade, M10x1.5, 65mm long
A116D0035F
R/B joint A117D0090S + washer A117A0118F + nut A117W3189F
Ball Joint, toe-link inboard, LH thread, 10.9 grade, M10x1.25, 65mm long
A117D0090S
Nyloc Nut, M10, 8.8 grade, M10x1.5 (use with A111D0135F)
A075W3011Z
Cleave Nut, M10, 10.9 grade, M10x1.5 (use with A116D0035F)
A117W3177F
Philidas Lock Nut, M10, 8.8 grade, M10x1.25 (use with A117D0090S)
A117W3189F
Hardened Washer
A117A0118F
Notes
When assembling the inboard ball joint, fit hardened washer A117A0118F between the ball pin
and subframe, and ensure that the flats on the ball pin are aligned horizontally for optimum load
distribution.
Toe-Link Outboard Ball Joint
The outboard joint has a RH thread into the toe-link tube, and was introduced in 1996 with a
female thread in the ball. These were superceded in December '98 by joints using ball pins with
integral studs. Integral stud type joints have been produced in two 8.8 grade ball pin versions for
the 'Mk.1' model, one with 60mm long ball pin for alloy hub carriers, and one with 45mm long ball
pin for steel hub carriers. For the 'Mk.2' cars, the ball joint uses a 10.9 grade ball pin, 45mm long,
with a fine pitch version introduced in June 2003, and a taper shank version in August 2003.
'Mk.1' Elise with female threaded ball joints (prior VIN W 5479 {December'98}) & alloy hub carri-
ers
Female threaded joints require careful bolt selection and assembly (refer to Service Notes section
DE.4) and are no longer available. Fitment of an integral stud type joint also requires that a dif-
ferent conical spacer and shim stack be fitted (refer to Service Notes section DE.4 for assembly
details)
The recommended service replacement is 60mm long (8.8 grade) joint A111D0134F torqued
to 45 Nm, and used with conical spacer B111D0043F, shims A111D0136F, washer A111W4163F
and nut A075W3011Z.
'Mk.1' Elise with integral stud ball joints and alloy hub carriers
The recommended service replaceement is as for original build, using 60mm long (8.8 grade)
joint A111D0134F, torqued to 45 Nm.
'Mk.1' Elise with steel hub carriers (approx. November '99 - refer to S/B 1999/17)
Early cars used the previous type 60mm long joint (A111D0134F) with a 10mm long spacer on top
of the hub carrier, and 45 Nm torque; Later cars used a 45mm long 8.8 grade joint B111D0134F
to dispense with the 10mm spacer, torqued to 45 Nm.
The recommended service replacement on all 'Mk.1' with steel hub carriers, is fine thread
joint A117D0074S and Philidas lock nut A117W3189F torqued to 50 Nm. See also note 4.
'Mk.2' cars prior to '03 M.Y. VIN 4669 (June '03)
These cars were built with a 10.9 grade version of the joint, A116D0034F, with 45mm long stud
(blackened appearance) together with a 10.9 cleave nut tightened to 74 Nm.
The recommended service replacement is fine thread 10.9 grade joint A117D0074S together
with Philidas lock nut A117W3189F torqued to 50 Nm. See also note 4.
'Mk.2' cars from '03 M.Y. VIN 4669 (June '03) to '04 M.Y. VIN 0613 (August '03)
Service replacement is as original build, i.e: fine thread 10.9 grade joint A117D0074S with
Philidas lock nut A117W3189F torqued to 50 Nm. See also note 4.
'Mk.2' cars with taper shank ball pins (from August '03)
Introduced in August '03 at '04 M.Y. VIN 0614 was a taper shank version of the joint together with
correspondingly machined hub carriers and an M12 Nyloc nut. This joint dispenses with the spacer
formerly fitted between the joint and the hub carrier.
Service replacement is as original build, i.e: taper shank joint A117D0089S with Nyloc nut
A100C6019F torqued to 55 Nm.
Outboard Ball Joint Summary
Ball Joint, toe-link outboard, female thread ball
A111D0064F
R/B joint A111D0134F, spacer B111D0043F, shims A111D0136F, washer A111W4163F, nut
A075W3011Z.
Ball Joint, toe-link outboard, RH thread, 8.8 grade, 60mm long
A111D0134F
(use only with alloy hub carrier)
Ball Joint, toe-link outboard, RH thread, 8.8 grade, M10x1.5, 45mm long
B111D0134F
R/B A117D0074S + A117W3189F
Ball Joint, toe-link outboard, RH thread, 10.9 grade, M10x1.5, 45mm long
A116D0034F
R/B A117D0074S + A117W3189F
Ball Joint, toe-link outboard, RH thread, 10.9 grade, M10x1.25, 45mm long A117D0074S
Ball Joint, toe-link outboard, RH thread, taper shank
A117D0089S
Nyloc Nut, M10, 8.8 grade, M10x1.5 (use with A/B111D0134F)
A075W3011Z
Cleave Nut, M10, 10.9 grade, M10x1.5 (use with A116D0034F)
A117W3177F
Philidas Lock Nut, M10, 8.8 grade, M10x1.25 (use with A117D0074S)
A117W3189F
Nyloc Nut, M12, 8.8 grade (use with A117D0089S)
A100C6019F
Toe-Link Assembly (inc. A117D0090S & A117D0089S)
B117D0088F
Notes
1. Service replacement alloy rear hub carriers are no longer available, and are replaced by the
forged steel carrier as detailed in Service Bulletin 1999/17.
2. When assembling the outboard joint, ensure that the flats on the ball pin are aligned with the
axis of the toe link, in order to provide optimum joint rocking stability.
3. On 'Mk.2' Elise, ensure that the double chamfered bump steer spacer (shim stack on 'Mk.1')
is fitted between the ball pin and the underside of the hub carrier, with the 10mm unchamfered
spacer on top of the carrier leg.
4. In all cases, ensure that the stud thread protrudes completely through the locking feature of the
retaining nut, and also that the nut is in no danger of bottoming out on the shank. On outboard
joints (except taper shank), the thread protrusion is dependent on the thickness of the bump steer
shim pack or selective spacer. If necessary, fit a flat washer beneath the nut to prevent any pos-
sibility of the nut bottoming out on the thread.
5. Ensure that the ball joints are orientated at 90° to each other to allow free articulation.
6. Refer also to S/B 2005/04 (Track use chassis brace kit).
Any queries should be addressed to Lotus Service Technical (technical@lotuscars.co.uk)
If you're not living on the edge you're wasting too much space!
Re: S2 Toe Links
Just noticed eliseparts do the tapered spacers on their own too for £15.54 a pair. You see how the taper goes into the hole in the hub and the spacer simply holds the rose joint down a bit?
These are in late S2's so maybe this was done to strengthen the weak area. It uses an M12 nut and so a thicker bolt than the early S2 and S1's M10 size.
Does anyone know of any later ones giving out? Neil or Robin can you remember which yours was (tapered or not), I can't remember the year of your car Neil. Thinking it may be better to just replace the balljoint with standard if it is better/stronger anyway. Would explain why Stu's 211 has never needed one and has been used well on track, often?!
These are in late S2's so maybe this was done to strengthen the weak area. It uses an M12 nut and so a thicker bolt than the early S2 and S1's M10 size.
Does anyone know of any later ones giving out? Neil or Robin can you remember which yours was (tapered or not), I can't remember the year of your car Neil. Thinking it may be better to just replace the balljoint with standard if it is better/stronger anyway. Would explain why Stu's 211 has never needed one and has been used well on track, often?!
Re: S2 Toe Links
'Mk.2' cars with taper shank ball pins (from August '03)
Introduced in August '03 at '04 M.Y. VIN 0614 was a taper shank version of the joint together with
correspondingly machined hub carriers and an M12 Nyloc nut. This joint dispenses with the spacer
formerly fitted between the joint and the hub carrier.
Service replacement is as original build, i.e: taper shank joint A117D0089S with Nyloc nut
A100C6019F torqued to 55 Nm.
So this is the part I was talking about for the tapered balljoint.
Easy enough to check for an M12 nut or M10 so I'll have a look but mine should be this as it's an '04 MY.
Introduced in August '03 at '04 M.Y. VIN 0614 was a taper shank version of the joint together with
correspondingly machined hub carriers and an M12 Nyloc nut. This joint dispenses with the spacer
formerly fitted between the joint and the hub carrier.
Service replacement is as original build, i.e: taper shank joint A117D0089S with Nyloc nut
A100C6019F torqued to 55 Nm.
So this is the part I was talking about for the tapered balljoint.
Easy enough to check for an M12 nut or M10 so I'll have a look but mine should be this as it's an '04 MY.
Re: S2 Toe Links
Sorry, I know this is boring but I like to ask questions...... 
So I checked my car last night and it is definatlety the tapered outboard balljoint that is there. It's an M12 nut on the top so this tapered bolt will obviously be larger diameter at the bottom than the 12mm at the end. (where the nut goes).
Does anyone know of any of these letting go or is it just the straight M10 bolt versions that break? These were all pre 2004.
Can anyone think of any Exige or post 2004 Elise's breaking a toe link? Or does the change to the bolt fix this? (If this is the case then I'd be loathed to spend £300 on an upgrade kit when Lotus themselves did it to some extent, plus the kits use M10 bolts so is this not a downgrade?).
So I checked my car last night and it is definatlety the tapered outboard balljoint that is there. It's an M12 nut on the top so this tapered bolt will obviously be larger diameter at the bottom than the 12mm at the end. (where the nut goes).
Does anyone know of any of these letting go or is it just the straight M10 bolt versions that break? These were all pre 2004.
Can anyone think of any Exige or post 2004 Elise's breaking a toe link? Or does the change to the bolt fix this? (If this is the case then I'd be loathed to spend £300 on an upgrade kit when Lotus themselves did it to some extent, plus the kits use M10 bolts so is this not a downgrade?).
Re: S2 Toe Links
Mine broke on the threaded part where the ball joint threads into the track rod. The 12mm upgrade is unlikely to help with that failure mode.
If you're not living on the edge you're wasting too much space!
Re: S2 Toe Links
I have just uploaded fail pics to the Facebook page if you want to see.
If you're not living on the edge you're wasting too much space!
Re: S2 Toe Links
Sorry I don't do Faceplook.Stephen wrote:I have just uploaded fail pics to the Facebook page if you want to see.
(New acronym SDDFB) but would be interested is seeing the pics. Re: S2 Toe Links
Does anyone know if you can link google drive photos to here? Robin?
If you're not living on the edge you're wasting too much space!
Re: S2 Toe Links
Don't worry about it I now where you mean. Did it break near the locknut or just at an open threaded part? It obviously wouldn't break where it was screwed into the rod. Would a longer rod have helped here, less threaded part in the open?Stephen wrote:Does anyone know if you can link google drive photos to here? Robin?
Re: S2 Toe Links
Unfortunately I was flying high on adrenaline and remember no actual details of the toe link kit on my car. I do remember how steep a drop it was and how close I came to almost going down it