cough stop dead

jimbo · Post by **jimbo** » Mon Feb 16, 2015 11:07 pm

Fun night tonight, just been recovered back to my house after AA couldn't get to me in a reasonable time, they're coming back tomorrow to take a look. Car started fine as normal, no obvious issues or problems, nothing even remotely strange. Drove out the work car park, over the roundabout to the junction, went for a gap and ..... car just cut out. Tried restarting, no dice. Fuel pump primes as normal, battery seems fine, 18l fuel in, but just won't catch. Any ideas in advance of AA visit tomorrow?

Cheers

Stu160 · Post by **Stu160** » Mon Feb 16, 2015 11:21 pm

Throttle position sensor problem...broken wire?
Undo the plug on the ecu, check and reconnect.
Dissconnect the battery for 10 mins, will reset the ecu
Alarm?

Stu

Stu160 · Post by **Stu160** » Mon Feb 16, 2015 11:24 pm

Also, does your car have a distributor? Could be a problem there, not unusual for the rotor arm to fall apart, or a lead came off

Stu

woody · Post by **woody** » Mon Feb 16, 2015 11:29 pm

HT system per Stu's second post.

jimbo · Post by **jimbo** » Mon Feb 16, 2015 11:31 pm

No distributor, rules that out.

I'll unplug the ecu tomorrow morning and go from there, seriously annoying. The fuel pump is only about 3 years old, the alternator and battery even less, I hate having starting issues!

jimbo · Post by **jimbo** » Mon Feb 16, 2015 11:32 pm

Also the leads and coil pack and plugs are all only about 14 months old

woody · Post by **woody** » Tue Feb 17, 2015 12:06 am

jimbo wrote:Also the leads and coil pack and plugs are all only about 14 months old

My intermittent & similar problems were due to the new HT leads I'd fitted.

Post by **campbell** » Tue Feb 17, 2015 12:58 am

What does the inertia switch kill - everything or just sparking?

robin · Post by **robin** » Tue Feb 17, 2015 9:35 am

The inertia switch disconnects the fuel pump. Jimbo reports his fuel pump primes, so not the inertia switch.

When you turn the ignition on, the stack needles do a dance, then settle on zero - I assume that's happening in your case.

When you crank, the rev counter should show approx 200rpm while you're cranking. If it doesn't then your crank position sensor is not working (or a wiring fault is making it look that way).

You should check that the switched 12V power to the engine is working. On an S1 you can remove the IACV connector, then turn the ignition on, measure the voltage from the brown+pink wire to the engine block - should be approx 12V. Don't forget to reconnect the plug to the IACV when you turn the ignition off. If the 12v is missing then the MFRU is first port of call.

Is it coughing/misfiring at all during cranking? If it is you could have one coil out (there are two coil packs) or the rear belt might have snapped/slipped. Also the front timing belt might have slipped, though I think it would need to slip multiple teeth before it would refuse to run at all. It's pretty easy to remove the cam cover and crank it to watch the various cam parts rotating - there are thee cams - two half inlets and one full exhaust - all three should rotate during cranking.

Cheers,
Robin

jimbo · Post by **jimbo** » Tue Feb 17, 2015 10:26 am

Drum roll please.... Timing belt has snapped. Honestly gutted.

I've got AA repair cover so that should cover up to £500 of the bill, but I presume it's an engine out and full strip down job?

mckeann · Post by **mckeann** » Tue Feb 17, 2015 10:47 am

Robin will know best, but i dont think you need to remove the engine to do this. Belt can be changed on the car, but you'll probably need to whip the head off to inspect and repair any bent valves etc etc

Stu160 · Post by **Stu160** » Tue Feb 17, 2015 11:56 am

jimbo wrote:Drum roll please.... Timing belt has snapped. Honestly gutted.

I've got AA repair cover so that should cover up to £500 of the bill, but I presume it's an engine out and full strip down job?

Oops, not so good.
You will be able to repair without removing the engine. May be lucky and not have bent anything..... But if you have, buy a lottery ticket as well, you will win this weekend for sure.

Stu

Post by **Shug** » Tue Feb 17, 2015 12:13 pm

How hard were you revving when it died and how many times did you try and re-start it?

TBH, it's pot luck but you'll be mega lucky to get away without at least a few bent valves... sh*tty, sh*tty luck mate...

Of course, what we'll say here is that it's an ideal time to ship the head to Kiwi Rog or the like for the rebuild and to sprinkle some fairy dust on it, if it's off anyway. Won't be a cheaper time to do it in the grander scheme.

jimbo · Post by **jimbo** » Tue Feb 17, 2015 1:18 pm

Hi Shug,

Gave it a bootfull to catch a gap, which of course turned into pie on face as I ended up blocking 4 streams of cars

Ok so realistically, if I did contemplate shipping the head off, what's that likely to cost?

Cheers

flyingscot68 · Post by **flyingscot68** » Tue Feb 17, 2015 1:27 pm

I snapped a timing belt on my K-Series engined car a few years back, stuck a new belt on, did a compression check and all was OK.

Hope you have the same luck I did.

Scottish Elises

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