S1 exige suspension refresh
S1 exige suspension refresh
So having decided to keep the exige, I'd like to refresh the suspension, basically redoing all the bushes and tidying up or replacing all parts. I could pay someone to do it, but I'd actually like to have a go myself ant take time to clean it all up etc. I don't want to waste money where it's not needed, but equally I'm happy to spend what's required to get the best result.
Question 1 is will I get half way through and find a seized bolt wishing I hadn't started, or is this within the ability of someone who owns lots of spanners but rarely uses them.
Question 2 is whether to refurb or replace the wishbones, I could strip powder coat and rebush the existing or I do like the idea of replacing with the eliseparts cold drawn wishbones. Any thoughts on the benefit of the later over the originals. Downsides to reusing the old wishbones?
Other items will be new disc an pads (stu I might need some help on discs to go with your rotors), updated toe links, anti-rollbar bushes and links. Nitro refurb. Spanner check and geo. still debating the best bushes, but the eliseparts ertacetal seem like a good compromise
Anything else I've missed? Oh I might as well replace the wheel arch liners which have huge holes, doubt they will last long though.
Comments and experience very welcome.
Question 1 is will I get half way through and find a seized bolt wishing I hadn't started, or is this within the ability of someone who owns lots of spanners but rarely uses them.
Question 2 is whether to refurb or replace the wishbones, I could strip powder coat and rebush the existing or I do like the idea of replacing with the eliseparts cold drawn wishbones. Any thoughts on the benefit of the later over the originals. Downsides to reusing the old wishbones?
Other items will be new disc an pads (stu I might need some help on discs to go with your rotors), updated toe links, anti-rollbar bushes and links. Nitro refurb. Spanner check and geo. still debating the best bushes, but the eliseparts ertacetal seem like a good compromise
Anything else I've missed? Oh I might as well replace the wheel arch liners which have huge holes, doubt they will last long though.
Comments and experience very welcome.
Re: S1 exige suspension refresh
Have a wee look here; http://www.scottishelises.com/phpbb/vie ... =5&t=39916
Again, I'd look past the solid type bushes and for the OEM ones from seriously lotus. If you have the funds though, full new wishbones from Elise parts are how I'd go. Downside of the old ones is they'll have thinned and will need manual labour & time to refurb. Elise parts and seriously lotus both do full kits of the parts you'll need.
It's all pretty straightforward, just time consuming and can be a pain when you don't have ramps.
Again, I'd look past the solid type bushes and for the OEM ones from seriously lotus. If you have the funds though, full new wishbones from Elise parts are how I'd go. Downside of the old ones is they'll have thinned and will need manual labour & time to refurb. Elise parts and seriously lotus both do full kits of the parts you'll need.
It's all pretty straightforward, just time consuming and can be a pain when you don't have ramps.
Re: S1 exige suspension refresh
So far I've managed to dismantle all the wishbones etc, no real issues other than being unable to back-of the lock nuts on one of the toe links, but as it's getting replaced that was easy to sort.
This is a big learning curve for me so probably simple jobs to an experienced spanner monkey take a bit more time to think through. Biggest and simplest learning is to slacken every single bolt/nut you can before removing anything.
I'm now at the refurb and cleaning phase. I've read lots of options for finishing and was originally thinking of powder coating. It seemed like an obvious solution, but apparently the finish will easily chip and ingress will soon affect the finish. So I'm opting for POR15, planning on 3-4 coats and I'll see how that goes.
One question I could use some advise on - I've loosened the hub nuts on the rear, and was planning to leave the driveshafts as is, but remove the hub carriers for a clean up and paint. I have a pulling tool so in theory removal should be ok, but how difficult will it be to refit?
The longer term problem is going to be reassembly. Each corner is in a box, but I hope I can figure out where all the bits go, a more experienced eye may be required when I get to that point..............
This is a big learning curve for me so probably simple jobs to an experienced spanner monkey take a bit more time to think through. Biggest and simplest learning is to slacken every single bolt/nut you can before removing anything.
I'm now at the refurb and cleaning phase. I've read lots of options for finishing and was originally thinking of powder coating. It seemed like an obvious solution, but apparently the finish will easily chip and ingress will soon affect the finish. So I'm opting for POR15, planning on 3-4 coats and I'll see how that goes.
One question I could use some advise on - I've loosened the hub nuts on the rear, and was planning to leave the driveshafts as is, but remove the hub carriers for a clean up and paint. I have a pulling tool so in theory removal should be ok, but how difficult will it be to refit?
The longer term problem is going to be reassembly. Each corner is in a box, but I hope I can figure out where all the bits go, a more experienced eye may be required when I get to that point..............
Re: S1 exige suspension refresh
Kerry
I left my hubs on and painted them as best as I could. Re the wishbones I had mine dipped and electroplated then did three coats of POR 15. That way I got the best of both worlds. If the paint is chipped then the zinc will provide protection. I will be doing the same with the 160's suspension soon too.
I left my hubs on and painted them as best as I could. Re the wishbones I had mine dipped and electroplated then did three coats of POR 15. That way I got the best of both worlds. If the paint is chipped then the zinc will provide protection. I will be doing the same with the 160's suspension soon too.
If you're not living on the edge you're wasting too much space!
Re: S1 exige suspension refresh
The por15 needs an etched surface so I was a bit concerned about etching post plating. Having said that my wishbones are in good shape no excessive rust and some plating still evident.Stephen wrote:Kerry
I left my hubs on and painted them as best as I could. Re the wishbones I had mine dipped and electroplated then did three coats of POR 15. That way I got the best of both worlds. If the paint is chipped then the zinc will provide protection. I will be doing the same with the 160's suspension soon too.
I ended up putting the hub puller on found the hubs came off by hand tightening the bolt, still lots of copper grease evident. So refitting should be a simple alignment and push fit.
Re: S1 exige suspension refresh
Cool. POR do an etching solution. So easily done. That said, if the existing plating is good then no need.
If you're not living on the edge you're wasting too much space!
Re: S1 exige suspension refresh
Use a couple of cable ties through the top wishbone holes to support the drive shaft.
I'm also electroplating and POR15 though am currently distracted by looking at DIY plating, plus my wishbone have no recollection of the original plating at all
I'm also electroplating and POR15 though am currently distracted by looking at DIY plating, plus my wishbone have no recollection of the original plating at all

'16 MINI Cooper S - Family fun hatch
'98 Lotus Elise - Fun day car
'04 Maserati Coupe GT - Manual, v8, Italian...
'18 Mazda Mx5 - The wife's, so naturally my daily
'19 Ducati Monster 797 - Baby bike bike
'98 Lotus Elise - Fun day car
'04 Maserati Coupe GT - Manual, v8, Italian...
'18 Mazda Mx5 - The wife's, so naturally my daily
'19 Ducati Monster 797 - Baby bike bike
Re: S1 exige suspension refresh
Cable ties are a good idea, although I've used a couple of woodworking stands.
I spent today getting the last nuts removed and tidying up the wishbones, but I have not managed to get the ball joints out of the wishbones. I've been attempting to press them out, but no joy. Tried some heat but doubt it made any difference. Any tips would be very welcome. Experience of the eliseparts tool would also be useful, I thought the press would have been better but maybe not.
I spent today getting the last nuts removed and tidying up the wishbones, but I have not managed to get the ball joints out of the wishbones. I've been attempting to press them out, but no joy. Tried some heat but doubt it made any difference. Any tips would be very welcome. Experience of the eliseparts tool would also be useful, I thought the press would have been better but maybe not.
Re: S1 exige suspension refresh
Stupid question but what way are you pushing? You should be pushing the side with the boot.
If you're not living on the edge you're wasting too much space!
Re: S1 exige suspension refresh
A fair question, but yes I'm pushing from the boot side. These are the original ball joint so I guess they will be securely fitted in factory conditions.Stephen wrote:Stupid question but what way are you pushing? You should be pushing the side with the boot.
Setting up the press to have space below but support the wishbone collar is tricky, I'll hunt for a suitable bit of pipe tomorrow.
Re: S1 exige suspension refresh
I obviously had 8 ball joints to remove. I bought the eliseparts tool.
The first one took me about 20 or 25 minutes to remove (wishbone off of car).
The 2nd one, the weld on the wishbone made it wider than it should have been (and I didn't notice) which meant I stuffed the thread on one of the bolts a little.
I then loosened and straightened the tool, and, erm, there is something like 15 complete turns to get each ball joint out (per bolt, 2 bolts), so, ummm, I must have miscounted the turns and ended up bending the bolt in the tool by tightening one side more than the other!
I then gave up, visited my friend who is a proper mechanic, and used the bits of the eliseparts tool in combination with his 10 ton press to get the other 7 pressed out!
The first one took me about 20 or 25 minutes to remove (wishbone off of car).
The 2nd one, the weld on the wishbone made it wider than it should have been (and I didn't notice) which meant I stuffed the thread on one of the bolts a little.
I then loosened and straightened the tool, and, erm, there is something like 15 complete turns to get each ball joint out (per bolt, 2 bolts), so, ummm, I must have miscounted the turns and ended up bending the bolt in the tool by tightening one side more than the other!

I then gave up, visited my friend who is a proper mechanic, and used the bits of the eliseparts tool in combination with his 10 ton press to get the other 7 pressed out!
'16 MINI Cooper S - Family fun hatch
'98 Lotus Elise - Fun day car
'04 Maserati Coupe GT - Manual, v8, Italian...
'18 Mazda Mx5 - The wife's, so naturally my daily
'19 Ducati Monster 797 - Baby bike bike
'98 Lotus Elise - Fun day car
'04 Maserati Coupe GT - Manual, v8, Italian...
'18 Mazda Mx5 - The wife's, so naturally my daily
'19 Ducati Monster 797 - Baby bike bike
Re: S1 exige suspension refresh
To be fair, I'm not sure the EP till was every intended to be used with the wishbones off the car, I've always found it to work well with them on and ended up pouring them back on the car the one I did try to fit a ball joint with the wishbones off.
- thesurfbus
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Re: S1 exige suspension refresh
I was using a 10 Ton press to remove my ball joints, but couldn't work out why they weren't budging, turns out I was pressing on the inside of the wishbone rather than the ball joint.
I went for shot blasting and powder coating the wishbones, and used POR15 on everything else.
I went for shot blasting and powder coating the wishbones, and used POR15 on everything else.
Lotus Elise 220 S
Re: S1 exige suspension refresh
I partially agree, though my wishbone was mounted in a vice, at a sensible height, which means it was easier to see, and sitting still rather than moving up and down as it would if the wishbone was still on the car.woody wrote:To be fair, I'm not sure the EP till was every intended to be used with the wishbones off the car, I've always found it to work well with them on and ended up pouring them back on the car the one I did try to fit a ball joint with the wishbones off.
I wholly take responsibility for over tightening 1 side and bending the bolt, however, in my experience, the tool wasn't quite wide enough (space between the bolts) to clear the weld on my 2nd wishbone, which is down to poor quality welding at Lotus in the first place (not filing off enough of the excess) though the tool could have been even 5mm wider between bolts.
I'm not complaining directly to Eliseparts as I have no issues with their tool. With it and the help of a press, the tool made removing the ball joints easy. It provides plenty of support to the wishbone, and a device the perfect size to push down on top of the ball joint.
'16 MINI Cooper S - Family fun hatch
'98 Lotus Elise - Fun day car
'04 Maserati Coupe GT - Manual, v8, Italian...
'18 Mazda Mx5 - The wife's, so naturally my daily
'19 Ducati Monster 797 - Baby bike bike
'98 Lotus Elise - Fun day car
'04 Maserati Coupe GT - Manual, v8, Italian...
'18 Mazda Mx5 - The wife's, so naturally my daily
'19 Ducati Monster 797 - Baby bike bike
Re: S1 exige suspension refresh
I have changed loads of ball joints and I use the EP tool and an impact gun. Always do them off the car and never had a bother, great little tool and very hardy given that I rattle up the bolts with a Dewalt 18v impact gun. I did try to use my press once but it's a complete PITA to get everything lined up so never use it for that now.
Kerry if you want a shot of the EP tool then let me know. Won't have all my tools back until the weekend as we are moving house on Friday but anytime after that your welcome to borrow.
Kerry if you want a shot of the EP tool then let me know. Won't have all my tools back until the weekend as we are moving house on Friday but anytime after that your welcome to borrow.
Elise S2 260
BMW M2 Comp
RRS HST
BMW R1300GS
BMW M2 Comp
RRS HST
BMW R1300GS