Rookie Error...

[chrisdb]

Wet road, too much right foot joining a motorway on a bendy slipway and over correcting = bashed rear passenger side. Damage looks like a new wheel, a bit of fibreglass repair and looks like I have bent the toe link and snapped the ally upright where is joins to the toe link. Also a new brake disc as the toe link appears to have shattered it.

Can't see any other damage to mounts etc.

I am counting myself lucky that nobody hit me :/

Looking for a bit of advice please. Is it possible to remove and replace the upright and toe links to replace or are special tools required? The toe link doesn't look too tricky but the upright is behind the hub if I'm right so will this need a mega torque wrench/puller etc?

The only uprights I can see online are megabucks upgraded items - anyone know of a sensible replacement? Happy to go second hand if in good condition (no rust to worry about with the ally upright?)

Thanks for any advice!
Chris

[campbell]

If it's an alu upright I think you're going to struggle for availability.

If steel, avail may be better. But yes some pressing out involved.

From memory, if undone in the right order, you can get hub and upright off as a unit if need be.

Sorry to hear of your graze.

[2F45T4U]

Alu uprights were replaced in later models and although heavier it was done for a reason and therefore probably a worthwhile 'upgrade' should be a straight swap.

Hubs and bearings are rover so you could by new easily to save a step pressing out the old one. You'd never be able to re use the old bearing anyway.

Chances are a 2nd hand upright will come with hub and bearing still fitted.

Basic handtools required, a balljoint wedge and splitting tool will make life easier and are cheap cheap.

[2F45T4U]

This is drivers side but gives you an idea. Maybe worth contacting the seller, he's always breaking elises.

Check out this item I found on eBay: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 40&alt=web

[woody]

Can always swap to steel uprights, maybe not ideal but if it's what you can get. I'd give Junks on seloc a shout first. The corner where the wishbone & link locate at the rear of the subframe has been known to crack, would advise having that area well inspected & if possible a dimensional check on the subframe. I'd also check the wishbones for straightness.

Think you'll need a long bar to remove the big nut on the end of the shaft, but it's not a job I've done as I've always left the upright /hub etc... attached to the shaft.

[campbell]

There is also a different toelink kit depending on whether alu or steel upright is used.

[chrisdb]

Thanks all.

I've sourced an ally upright with wheel bearing in situ (promised good) for £150 - does this sound reasonable?

Have also messages junks to see if can help. Have contacted the ebay seller but they don't have available.

Should I just buy new toe links?

[2F45T4U]

Ye sounds like a good price and with the added bonus of being a straight forward bolt-on repair.

I would buy new toe links. Theyve clearly taken a good dunt and since youre presumably going to have the alignment done after this repair, re-using them for them to wear out in a few weeks would be slightly annoying.

[Ferg]

I've got a good set of standard toe links from my old Elise. They only had about 10k miles on them. PM me if you'd like them, much cheapness.

[tut]

That eBay price is ludicrous, junks has them on SELOC for £150, less if you say that they are a present for tut<BG>

You just missed out as I gave two rears to Robin for 1p each at the weekend.

tut:- treat Douglas Valley as you would the plague, there should be a Predator permanently on patrol over their scrapheap.

[chrisdb]

Junks is having a look for me so hopefully get one or the other.

Ferg - thanks - you have PM.

Got wheel off and had a good look tonight. After washing off a load of undergrowth...

Definitely need a new toe link!


Upright snapped off


To remove the hub from the upright am I right in thinking that I need to undo the big nut in the middle?

I am not a total novice have done brakes, servicing, basic mods for a while but never suspension. Have torque wrenches etc.



Wishbones look straight compared to other side and can't see any issues with brackets on chassis but I will have these properly looked at. All feels solid except toe link...





Hoping the wheel can be fixed - can't get a replacement from compomotive



It'll buff out?



Seriously though I'm planning to use SVR paint (StephenM on seloc) - does anyone have any experience with him? Seems well regarded down in these parts...

Thanks for all advice and I appreciate you all not ripping me. So embarrassing being that guy who crashes his first lotus. Long day sailboat racing in wet and windy wales and sleep deprivation from 7 month old not a good combo with wet road.

Cheers

[2F45T4U]

yes, big nut needs removing. It will be tight, hardest part for people isnt the tightness, but the locking of the hub to prevent it from turning.

toe link is toast.

[tut]

No probs with Stephen, good guy.

tut

[graeme]

You won't get a p*ss-taking here. You're in fine company. SE's written off more underpants than any other car club in Scotland!

Good luck with the fix. Doesn't look too bad.

[Lazydonkey]

You won't get a p*ss-taking here. You're in fine company. SE's written off more underpants than any other car club in Scotland!

Good luck with the fix. Doesn't look too bad.

Exactly - we've all done it and those who haven't splintered fibreglass when it's happened are just lucky! Self included. I managed to spin a Nissan Primera ffs

Also full kudos for not coming on and blaming diesel