Need a genius...or locksmith!

[Munky]

Locked out of S2 - hoping someone has a good idea. Been tucked away in garage for winter on trickle charger. Fob will not open doors, just getting a slight movement of latches. Fairly certain the CDL module needs replaced but can't get into car. As it was locked with the fob, the keys don't unlock the doors. The fob does switch the alarm on and off so I have access to engine bay and both windows have been left down by about 1cm for circulation if that helps?? Any ideas?

[mckeann]

Can you not get something down through he window to open the inside door handle??

[Dominic]

Shoe lace to lasso the interior door lock button A bit footery but dooable.

Or, is it a long tail roof?

[Shug]

Not sure the lock indicator things on the S2 have enough of a lip to lasso them, TBH. I've also never tried unlocking by pulling them up - I think they are more indicators than the mechanism, although happy to be proven wrong on that.

When Elaine's CDL went, there was an intermittence to it, so you might find that spamming the unlock button multiple times might just trigger it?

[alicrozier]

Soft top? You might have enough room through the window to unlatch the roof bar.

[whaleys]

I may not be thinking this entirely through but can you not get the boot open with just the key? If so boot open and booster pack on battery just to get doors open?

If I'm just stating the obvious that has been ruled out well before now, my apologies for wasting your time

[tut]

Boot is open, trickle charger has been on.

Check battery voltage which should be above 12.5v, worth hooking up to another car just to make sure that you have amps as well as volts, then call the AA if you are a member or have a friend who is.

tut

[Shug]

Guys, to clarify, the CDL is the central locking module, nothing to do with battery charge - the module fails, meaning the central door locks won't operate - and they are independent from the key locks (as the CL equipped S2 still uses those old corsa boot lock buttons that can be locked independently of the central locking)

[whaleys]

Thanks, I had misunderstood.

In an attempt to redeem myself with a useful suggestion, in this instace I second what Ali has suggested, with the windows being down a little you can hopefully get your fingers far enough in to release the soft top side bar and remove it, if not find someone with long skinny fingers.

[BigD]

Where is said CDL module located? In case mine goes at some point.

[Shug]

Oh it's buried...

Deep in the dash - drivers side, at the base of the windscreen. I think I could get one finger on it when I removed a face vent and tried to shove my hand in to wiggle it. Insert your own gags there, really....

[pete]

By a slight movement of the latches do you mean the little knob like things that stick up on the inside of each door?

There is a lip on top of ach one which is big enough to get something round at which point you are in...

Old skool repossession (in a different life)

Big flat screwdriver, some kitchen towel or a soft cloth and long cable tie.

Wrap the cloth round the screwdriver to stop it scratching the car. Slip the blade of the screwdriver in between the window and the B pillar. Ease the glass out *carefully* and slip your doubled over cable tie into the gap (th gap is largely formed from the rubber seal). You are now holding both ends of a cable tie, feed enough in until you have a loop, lower the loop over the knob then tighten and lift!

[Munky]

Thanks all. Hadn't considered trying to physically pull up the latch from through the window. There's an indentation so that might work if I can get something attached through the window gap. I had another slightly crazy idea of trying to get the key in the ignition through the gap in the window and turn it to II so I can operate the opposite window with a long rod! Maybe a bit far-fetched.

PS. It's got the hard-top bolted on at the moment. And the battery is fully charged.

[Shug]

By a slight movement of the latches do you mean the little knob like things that stick up on the inside of each door?

There is a lip on top of ach one which is big enough to get something round at which point you are in...

Old skool repossession (in a different life)

Big flat screwdriver, some kitchen towel or a soft cloth and long cable tie.

Wrap the cloth round the screwdriver to stop it scratching the car. Slip the blade of the screwdriver in between the window and the B pillar. Ease the glass out *carefully* and slip your doubled over cable tie into the gap (th gap is largely formed from the rubber seal). You are now holding both ends of a cable tie, feed enough in until you have a loop, lower the loop over the knob then tighten and lift!

This all works if you can unlock the doors by pulling up the knobs. I'm not sure you can - there is a separate locking switch on the central tunnel and I remember in Elaine's old 111R that I couldn't lock by pushing down the knobs - they seemed to be indicators, more than anything.

What would help is if someone with a central locking equipped S2 could try getting into the car, locking it from the inside and trying to unlock by pulling up the knobs, before Munky starts mucking about with screwdrivering his door seals?

[pete]

By a slight movement of the latches do you mean the little knob like things that stick up on the inside of each door?

There is a lip on top of ach one which is big enough to get something round at which point you are in...

Old skool repossession (in a different life)

Big flat screwdriver, some kitchen towel or a soft cloth and long cable tie.

Wrap the cloth round the screwdriver to stop it scratching the car. Slip the blade of the screwdriver in between the window and the B pillar. Ease the glass out *carefully* and slip your doubled over cable tie into the gap (th gap is largely formed from the rubber seal). You are now holding both ends of a cable tie, feed enough in until you have a loop, lower the loop over the knob then tighten and lift!

This all works if you can unlock the doors by pulling up the knobs. I'm not sure you can - there is a separate locking switch on the central tunnel and I remember in Elaine's old 111R that I couldn't lock by pushing down the knobs - they seemed to be indicators, more than anything.

What would help is if someone with a central locking equipped S2 could try getting into the car, locking it from the inside and trying to unlock by pulling up the knobs, before Munky starts mucking about with screwdrivering his door seals?

You can. Did it myself many moons ago whilst the man at MMC (pre-Craig) patiently explained to me that yes, he was sure it would work... (I'd locked my keys in the car).